Prompted by the phrase "Common sense isn't always common practice," from Trevor Ragan of Learner Lab, Nate and Kris sat down to discuss five aspects of climbing where they see this holding true. This is the first of those five aspects: the Quality vs. Quantity Conundrum in Climbing.

So what is it, where does it often happen, and how can we make sure we are getting the right thing – quality or quantity – in our climbing?

This episode originally aired on March 19, 2018.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Kris’s new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13’s, is out now!

Trevor Ragan | Fixed vs. Growth Mindset

Trevor Ragan | Motor Learning

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Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

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The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. 

Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. 

Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c.

They discuss:

• Pushing grades in the 80's.
• The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit.
• The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger.
• The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's.
• The benefits of friendly competition at the crag.
• The first actual comps.
• Tribout playing the villain.
  

Check out more here!

Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.

----------------------------------

Season Two is generously supported by Rab. 

Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

An update on where we've been, where we're going, and my new book, Adapt: Lessons Learned Climbing 100 5.13's.

Check out the new book! 

Joy Black is a mother of three, and a strength and climbing coach specializing in working with pregnant and postpartum climbers. In this episode, Kris and Joy go trimester by trimester, looking at training and logistical considerations for pregnant climbers and their partners.

Check out all of Joy's courses.

Sign up for Joy's newsletter.

Save 50% on your first month of Beta for the Bump training using code PCCBFTB at checkout!

Get on the waitlist for The Postpartum Project training.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Sport Climber Experiences of Pregnancy and Return-to-Sport Postpartum Research Study Survey

Teal Dreher’s Pregnancy & Postpartum Climbing blog

Climbing Training and Pregnancy: My Journey, with coach Jess West

Beth Rodden | Climbing and Parenting

Allyson Gunsallus | The Challenges of Parenting as a Climber

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🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00:00) Intro

(00:02:05) How Joy Found this Niche

(00:16:37) Empowerment and Vulnerability

(00:31:31) Joy’s Overarching Philosophy

(00:38:55) Disclaimers and Contraindications

(00:41:48) First Trimester

(00:44:07) ANNOTATION: Evidence Based vs. Evidence Informed

(01:01:13) ANNOTATION: Beta for the Bump

(01:10:50) Second Trimester

(01:19:50) ANNOTATION: Diastasis, Deep Core, Linea Alba

(01:36:23) Third Trimester

(01:58:34) Wrap Up

(02:04:48) Outro

This is the final episode in this special series with host Emily Chen-Newton. In keeping with the themes of community-built and community-led, this episode features three truly incredible blind athletes leading the conversation. Emily takes a step back from the mic as Justin Salas, Seneida Biendarra, and Chaz Misuraca carry us through a conversation about each of their unique and ongoing journeys with vision loss and how climbing – the sport, and the community – provides support. We begin the conversation with each of them explaining their sight loss and their relationship to climbing.

Follow EBC on Instagram.

Follow Justin on Instagram.

Follow Seneida on Instagram.

Follow Chaz on Instagram.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

More episodes of Every Body Climbs

More episodes of Sends and Suffers

Maureen Beck | Adapting

Justin Salas | Nonsighting

REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training.

In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers.

Find Lucia and Noah online at Beta Addicts.

Follow Lucia and Noah on Instagram.

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🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Tyler Algeo and Scott Pagel | Being Good Climbing Partners

REMIX: EFFORT

The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber

Ebook Training Plans

The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

_________________________

📚 CHAPTERS

(00:00:00) Intro

(00:01:34) Meeting Noah and Lucia

(00:10:39) Goals and Choosing a Plan

(00:20:34) Fitting Training Into Life

(00:29:39) How Did the Training Go?

(00:36:07) Did Anything Surprise You?

(00:42:42) How Much Do You Get Outside?

(00:49:35) How Did the Training Show Up?

(00:53:39) Fall Season After Training

(00:58:15) Bit by a Bat on Route

(01:06:10) Spring Season After Training

(01:23:05) Wrap Up

Kris and Nate decide on their favorite movie theater candy and then watch Devotion: Jakob Schubert's Journey to the Top, released by Mammut. They discuss the film and the takeaways from it that we can use in our own climbing.

Watch the film.

Film Credits:
Yucca Films

Online Climbing Films from the 1990s

More Movie Night episodes

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Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and Nate get a popcorn and watch Arcteryx Presents: Passion featuring America's most prolific sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist. They discuss the style of the film, Ryan White's editing, how difficult it is to make sport climbing look hard (or interesting) and the lessons that we can use in our own climbing.

Watch the film.

The Lil Yachty Walk Out video discussed.

Film Credits:

Director: Ryan White
DP: Ryan White + Marco Zanone
Photography: Ryan White
Music: Dubspeeka + Thimble

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Today's episode, which comes to us from Every Body Climbs, features Melissa Ruiz. Melissa has been climbing and competing for about 6 years. She’s got a collection of medals to her name, including five gold, from national and world paraclimbing championships/cups. 

But recently she's started climbing outside, and to put it lightly, she is stoked. So, this October (2024) she'll be teaching an aid climbing workshop at the Adaptive Climbers Fest in the Red River Gorge. Aid climbing is part of how Melissa has been able to access outdoor climbing with her disability, which is cerebral palsy. We pick up the conversation as she's explaining her condition and throughout the episode we talk about the importance of core strength, the joy of outdoor climbing, and what grades really mean.

Follow Melissa on Instagram.

Follow EBC on Instagram.

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

More episodes of Every Body Climbs

More episodes of Sends and Suffers

Maureen Beck | Adapting

Justin Salas | Nonsighting

REWIND | Craig DeMartino on Making Hard Decisions and Using Limitations

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Of all of the elements of climbing movement, Rhythm is the most overlooked. What's more, it's often the reason we fall, even if it appears to be something different. Learn how to spot when Rhythm is a problem and how you can get better at making sure Rhythm isn't holding you back.

Read the rest on the blog!

Watch the video on YouTube!

Check out The Atomic Elements of Climbing Movement course! 

_________________________

🔍 EXPLORE FURTHER

You might enjoy these related articles, episodes, and other resources:

Taped Tips | The Secret to Hard Moves that Most Climbers Are Missing

Taped Tips | The Setup Mistake Climbers Make on Hard Moves

Our Movement Practice Resource Page

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Power Company on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.

Kris and Nate sit down to watch In Sequence: Katie Lamb and the Craft of Hard Bouldering from Patagonia Films, and then discuss the film itself as well as lessons and takeaways that we can use in our own climbing.

Watch the film.

Produced and Directed by Eric Bissell
Editor David Fitzgerald
Director of Photography Eric Bissell
Executive Producers Alex Lowther, Justin Roth, Kristo Torgersen
Producer Monika McClure
Additional Photography Owen Bissell, Spenser Tang-Smith
Color Royal Muster/Greg Reese
Graphics Ben Blanchard
Sound Design and Mix David Fitzgerald

_________________________

🔌 SUPPORT + CONNECT

Help us keep the show sponsor-free when you join our Patreon Community for as little as $3.

Get two or more bonus episodes every month on Patreon, Spotify, or Apple.

Subscribe to THE CURRENT and get a monthly exploration of how we can all become better climbers.

Find Nate on Instagram and YouTube.

Find Kris on Instagram and YouTube.

Share this episode with a friend who needs to hear it.

_________________________

The Power Company Podcast is a proud founding member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.