This is part of my Folklore Friday Series, where I am sharing an Icelandic folklore story every Friday in 2024.

A King’s Decree Leads To Iceland’s Land Spirits Being Discovered

In the Heimskringla saga of King Olaf Tryggvason, there is a captivating tale of King Harald Bluetooth’s failed attempt to invade Iceland. According to the saga, Harald tasked a sorcerer who transformed into a fearsome whale, with finding the island’s vulnerabilities. However, each time the whale-sorcerer tried to land, he was repelled by supernatural beings known as Land Spirits, Iceland’s guardians.

A Sorcerer Encounters Iceland’s Land Spirits

The whale-sorcerer’s first attempt to land was in the Eastern Fjords, where he encountered a ferocious dragon. This dragon was so powerful that it is said that its fiery breath could make the ocean burn. To add to that, the flaps of its wings sounded like thunder. Alongside the dragon were terrifying snakes, lizards, and slithering spirits. Fearing for its life, the whale retreated farther back into the ocean.

A little shaken but still determined, the sorcerer/whale found himself in the north of Iceland, aiming to land in Eyjafjörður. Here, a massive griffin with an immense wingspan descended from the skies. Countless birds with razor-sharp talons and beaks like battle axes came with it. Together, they drove the whale-sorcerer away.

For his third attempt, the whale tried to land in the Westfjords of the country, specifically Breiðafjörður, where an enormous bull awaited him. Unlike other bulls, this one was said to have a body as solid as the earth, bronze horns, and a hide as tough as stone. To add to its insane exterior, one bellow from the bull made the mountains shake. and a body as solid as the earth, the bull’s bellowing made the mountains tremble. Not surprisingly, the whale-wizard had no intention of going head-to-head with the bull, so it fled.

In a final desperate attempt to find a vulnerable spot on the island to report back to the King, the sorcerer aimed for the Reykjanes peninsula. Here, he faced an enormous giant whose head towered above the hilltops. Armed with an iron staff and with a formidable army of other giants, the giant sent the whale-sorcerer fleeing back to the sea, thwarting King Harald Bluetooth’s invasion plans.

Random Fact of the Episode

These guardians protect Iceland, each overseeing a quarter of the island. To this day, these Land Spirits are deeply respected and are featured on the Icelandic coat of arms, as well as the Icelandic króna coins. They symbolize the protection and prosperity of Iceland’s land and its spiritual and physical inhabitants.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Landvættir is the Icelandic word for land spirits.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

Iceland straddles the Mid-Atlantic Ridge where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet. This unique geographical setting has led to some fascinating geological features and dynamic landscapes.

In this episode, I go over the geology a little bit, the main reason why Iceland does not split in two even though the tectonic plates are slowing moving apart, and where in the country you can enjoy seeing the Mid-Atlantic Ridge in the country.

The Mid-Atlantic Ridge and Iceland’s Unique Position

The Mid-Atlantic Ridge is a submarine mountain range that runs down the center of the Atlantic Ocean, marking the boundary between the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates. In most places, this ridge lies deep underwater, but in Iceland, it rises above the sea, creating a rare opportunity to observe tectonic activity on land.

Iceland owes its existence to this tectonic setting. The ridge is characterized by divergent boundaries, where the plates are moving away from each other. As these plates diverge, magma rises from the mantle to fill the gap, creating new crust. This process is responsible for the volcanic activity that has shaped Iceland’s rugged terrain.

The Nature of Tectonic Plates

The movement of tectonic plates is a slow and gradual process. The Eurasian and North American plates are drifting apart at an average rate of about 2.5 centimeters (.9 inches) per year. While this may seem significant, it’s important to put it in perspective. Over millions of years, this movement will indeed widen the Atlantic Ocean, but the effect on Iceland is much more subtle.

The divergence of these plates does cause fissures and rift valleys, such as the Þingvellir National Park, where the rift between the plates is visible. However, this does not mean Iceland will split in half. Instead, the country is constantly being reshaped and reformed by volcanic activity and the upwelling of magma, which fills in any gaps created by the diverging plates.

Volcanic Activity and Land Formation

One of the key factors that prevent Iceland from splitting is its volcanic activity. Iceland is one of the most volcanically active regions in the world, with eruptions occurring roughly every four to five years. In most recent years, we have seen an increase in volcanic eruptions with them happening multiple times in a year just in 2024. These eruptions are part of the same process that forms the mid-ocean ridges.

When magma from beneath the Earth’s crust reaches the surface, it cools and solidifies, forming new land. This continuous creation of new crust compensates for the divergent movement of the tectonic plates. Instead of splitting apart, Iceland is actually growing larger over time as new volcanic material is added to its landmass.

The Role of the Icelandic Mantle Plume

Adding to the volcanic activity is the presence of the Icelandic mantle plume, a column of hot, molten rock that rises from deep within the Earth. This plume provides a steady supply of magma, which fuels Iceland’s numerous volcanoes. The mantle plume is thought to be responsible for the high levels of volcanic activity and the formation of Iceland itself.

The mantle plume’s upwelling helps to reinforce the island’s structure. As magma rises and cools, it forms new rock that acts to fill in and stabilize any fractures or rifts caused by the diverging plates. This process ensures that while fissures and rifts are part of Iceland’s landscape, they do not lead to the island splitting apart.

Geophysical Studies and Predictions

Extensive geophysical studies have been conducted to monitor Iceland’s tectonic activity. Seismologists and geologists use a range of tools, including GPS measurements, seismographs, and satellite imagery, to track the movement of the plates and the activity of the mantle plume. These studies provide valuable insights into the dynamics at play.

The data shows that while there are indeed rifting events and volcanic eruptions, the overall structure of the island remains stable. The creation of new crust through volcanic activity outpaces the divergent movement of the tectonic plates, maintaining the integrity of the landmass.

Where to Experience the Mid Atlantic Ridge in Iceland

There are two well marked areas where you can experience the rift valley in Iceland. The most well known place is Thingvellir National Park, which is part of the famous Golden Circle route. Here, you can walk in the rift valley, which is the valley between the Eurasian and North American Tectonic Plates.

I shared in a recent episode about snorkeling between these plates and how incredibly fun it is. If you plan to do that, you can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% when you book with Arctic Adventures.

If you are curious about all of the stops on the Golden Circle, including some fun extras, check out my Ultimate Golden Circle episode that I shared on the podcast.

The other place is on the Reykjanes Peninsula. In fact, there is a Bridge between Continents attraction there. It is a symbolic bridge named after Leifur Eriksson that shows that you cross between continents. Technically, it is that you can cross between plates but because most of North America is on the North American tectonic plate and most of Europe is on the Eurasian tectonic plate, it is advertised as between continents.

Random Fact of the Episode

A unique feature of Iceland is that it is only inhabited island in the world where the Mid-Atlantic ridge is visible on land.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Atlantshafshryggurinn – Atlantic Ridge

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This is part of my Folklore Friday Series, where I am sharing an Icelandic folklore story every Friday in 2024.

A Magical Woman from Norway Migrates to Iceland

In the book of the Icelanders, or Landnámabók, is a person named Þuríður syndafyllir and her son Völu-Steinn. They immigrated from Northern Norway and settled in Bolungarvík in the Westfjords of Iceland.

It was rumored that Þuríður had incredible powers. One story about her when she lived in Norway was that she cast a spell that filled all the straits with fish.

Fighting Over Land – Petty or Justified?

This particular Folklore story is about a quarrel she had with her brother Þjóðólfur. One day her brother asked Þuríður to give him land at Bolungarvík. She agreed to letting him have the land he could fence in on his own in a day.

While Þjóðólfur had planned to fence off land that started at Stigi and included Hlíðardalur, and Tungudalur, he only made it about half way to the middle of Tungudalur. Even though the deal was pretty clear, Þjóðólfur was not happy that his sister would not allow him to also have Tungudalur included as part of his land.

To get back at her for denying him, he decided to steal one of her ox that she kept at Stigihlíð. To Þjóðólfur´s suprise, his sister caught him trying to steal the ox and ran after him. He was quick but she caught up to him at Ófæra and tried to get the animal back. However, her brother won that battle.

Not one to be outdone, Þuríður cast a spell upon Þjóðólfur that would turn him into a stone that many birds would defecate on. The part about being pooped on is specifically part of this story. LOL. Well, her brother was magically inclined as well, and he cast a spell for her to be turned into a rock that is placed where the highest winds blow.

Turning Each Other to Stone

Well, both of their spells worked and each turned into stone. Þjóðólfur became a rock that rolled into the water but was never full submerged. A variety of birds would land on it and leave behind their waste. Apparently, the locals knew of this story and the stone.

They called in Þjóðólfur after the brother and would talk about it when walking by. It is said that in 1936, the stone vanished probably because the end of the spell had been reached. Þuríður became a stone at the northern part of Óshlíð and might still be there to this day.

Make Your Own Itinerary with My Iceland Map

Another great resource is to grab full access to my Iceland map. This map was created for those who want to pick out places and hidden gems around Iceland to make up their own itinerary or add to one that they already created.

With full access, you get over 280 places that I recommend in Iceland, along with four itineraries to use for planning your trip. Those itineraries include a 10-day Ring Road trip, a 3-day South Iceland trip, The Famous Golden Circle and a Reykjanes Peninsula Day Trip.

A one-time purchase gives you lifetime access, which includes any updates I make to the map.

Here is a link to my Iceland map: rexby.com/jewells/Iceland.

Random Fact of the Episode

Óshlíð, the historical road connecting Bolungarvík and Hnífsdalur, began construction in the 1950s and was once the sole link for Bolungarvík residents to Iceland’s road network. As of 2010, the route no longer accommodates vehicle traffic due to the opening of the new Bolungarvík tunnel. However, Óshlíð has been repurposed as a scenic outdoor area for recreation. The smooth pavement provides ideal conditions for cyclists and runners seeking a nature immersion. The imposing cliffs towering 300 to 400 meters above can make one feel quite diminutive.

Óshlíð is notorious for its challenging road conditions, with frequent avalanches, rockfalls, and debris. Parts of the road have deteriorated due to harsh weather and coastal erosion. Consequently, tourists are urged to exercise caution and park their cars at either end of the pass. Driving on this road is not advisable as accidents are not covered by insurance for either vehicles or their occupants.

For a memorable experience, Óshlíð is particularly recommended during the luminous summer evenings when the sunset views are unparalleled. Informational signage is available at Hnífsdalur, marking the starting point of the Óshlíð route. There, visitors can also find a quaint spot to enjoy a coffee before walking towards the sunset

Icelandic word of the episode

Sundafyllir – Strait Filler is the nickname for Þuríður

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Rökkvi Vésteinsson was born in 1978 in Iceland. He had a multicultural upbringing, living in Chicago at age 11, and spending summers in Denmark and Sweden during his teens. By age 20, he was fluent in four foreign languages, thanks to his travels and a stint as an au pair in Germany.

Rökkvi began his professional journey guiding one-day tours from Reykjavík to Kulusuk, Greenland at 23, leveraging his language skills in English, German, and Danish. He simultaneously embarked on a career in stand-up comedy starting in 2003.

After completing degrees in Biochemistry and Computer Science at Háskóli Íslands, he worked in Montreal as a programmer and software tester from 2004-2005, where he continued his comedy career. He also intermittently guided tours in Greenland and Iceland.

In 2017, Vésteinsson transitioned to full-time tour guiding, leading a variety of tours across Iceland, including multi-day and cruise ship tours, distillery tours, and city walks in Reykjavík. His guiding languages expanded to include Icelandic, English, German, Swedish, Danish, Norwegian, Dutch, and French, reflecting his continuous language learning.

Vésteinsson’s passion for languages led him to LingQ in 2019, where he learned French and other languages to literacy. He collaborated with LingQ’s CEO, contributing significantly to their Icelandic resources and successfully advocating for free Icelandic learning on the platform.

Today, Vésteinsson continues to add educational content to LingQ and promotes language learning in Iceland. He also performs comedy in multiple languages across various countries, showcasing his diverse linguistic and cultural fluency.

Have a Question for Rökkvi

Through my link for “Ask Jewells Anything”, feel free to submit a question for Rökkvi. Please add into the description box that it is for him.

Learn More About Greenland

During the interview, Rökkvi and I talked about Greenland. Here is an episode where you can learn more about modern Greenland and how some Greenlandic activist are working to reclaim their culture.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumsy fljótlega.

Where Iceland’s Loch Ness Monster Lives

Lagarfljot, nestled in eastern Iceland, is not just a lake but a river channel flowing from the majestic Vatnajokull glacier to the sea. This secluded area carries a mysterious aura, providing fertile ground for local folklore.

Visitors from the east of Iceland or those who have journeyed to Reykjavik might share tales of a monstrous inhabitant lurking in the murky depths of the lake, reminiscent of Scotland’s famous Loch Ness monster.

This creature, known as Lagarfljotsormur, a name that challenges even the bravest linguist, translates to “the Lagarfljot worm.” Reported sightings by locals have captured this enigmatic being on film, where it appears as an elusive, moving shape beneath the water’s surface.

How Lagarfljótsormur Came to Be

According to legend, the origins of this creature stem from a young girl’s encounter with greed. Gifted a gold ring by her mother, she sought advice on how to maximize its value. Her mother relayed a local myth: placing a worm on gold would make the gold multiply.

The girl, hoping to increase her wealth, locked a worm in a chest with the ring. Contrary to her hopes, the worm grew exponentially. Overcome with fear upon discovering the worm’s transformation, she hurled the chest into the lake.

Since that day, the creature, resembling a giant sea snake, has surfaced sporadically, captured in fleeting video glimpses that stoke the fires of legend and debate. To some, these images are proof of its existence; to others, they are mere fragments of myth. The true nature of Lagarfljotsormur remains shrouded in mystery, its legend undiminished by time.

Random Fact of the Episode

There have been numerous people that claim to have seen this giant worm and there was even a video that came out once that was said to be footage of it.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Lagarfljótsormur – the Lagarfljot worm

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Have you ever imagined swimming between two continents, touching the jagged edges of the earth’s crust beneath crystal-clear water? I had the unforgettable experience of snorkeling in Silfra Fissure, located in the heart of Thingvellir National Park, Iceland.

This unique adventure is available all year round, and whether you visit during the chilly embrace of December or the milder days of April, like I did, it’s an exhilarating experience not to be missed.

Arctic Adventures is a premier travel company in Iceland, offering a wide array of day and multi-day tours that showcase the breathtaking natural beauty of this volcanic island.

From snorkeling and glacier hiking to exploring the eruptive landscapes, they ensure a memorable and safe adventure for all. I’ve partnered with them for this post, and by using my code Iceland10, you can save 10% on any of their tours. Check out their offerings at adventures.is and plan your next epic journey!

What is Silfra Fissure in Thingvellir National Park in Iceland?

Silfra Fissure is a remarkable rift formed between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This gap widens slightly each year, filled with glacial meltwater that is filtered through underground lava for nearly a century before it emerges as some of the clearest and freshest water on earth. Snorkeling here, you are literally floating between continents, in water visibility that extends up to 100 meters (about 328 feet), making it one of the top dive sites in the world.

My Arctic Adventure Begins

My journey began in the historic Thingvellir National Park, just about an hour’s drive from Reykjavik. I chose to drive myself to the meeting point, parking in Lot 5 and walking a short distance to where Arctic Adventures had set up. It was a brisk 10 degrees Celsius in April—a perfect day for snorkeling.

After a quick registration and waiver signing, the team helped us suit up. We were advised to wear thin thermal layers and thick wool socks under provided thick onesie thermal suits. Over these, they layered us into snug dry suits complete with gloves, a dry suit material face mask, snorkel mask, and fins.

Given the water temperature hovers around 2-3 degrees Celsius, these dry suits were crucial for keeping our core body temperatures stable. And yes, take advantage of the restrooms before you suit up—it’s a lot easier!

The Snorkeling Experience in Silfra Fissure

The walk to the water’s edge was brief, and entering the water was seamless. Visibility was phenomenal; we could see the divers below us looking as if they were hovering just feet away due to the clarity of the water. A soft current gently pulled us through the fissure, meaning we could enjoy the surreal surroundings without much effort.

The guide even snapped photos during our adventure, which were later available for download—truly epic shots that captured the ethereal blue of the waters, which are so pure you can drink from them.

Warmth After the Chill

Post-snorkel, we were treated to hot chocolate or tea and cookies, a welcome treat that helped warm us from the inside out. While the dry suits did an excellent job overall, my hands did feel the chill, especially my left one, which got uncomfortably cold. Fortunately, the sunny weather helped in warming up quickly once we were out of the water

Overall Impressions

Despite the minor chill, the experience was nothing short of magical. Snorkeling at Silfra with Arctic Adventures was a highlight of my adventures in Iceland—a truly unique experience where you can float between two worlds. It’s something I’d recommend to anyone visiting Iceland, no matter the season.

For more information on booking your own adventure and to utilize discounts, check out the “Trip Planning Help” tab at the top of my website allthingsiceland.com. Don’t forget to use Iceland10 to save on your booking with Arctic Adventures.

Here’s to your next adventure—may it be as breathtaking as snorkeling in Silfra!

Random Fact of the Episode

Silfra and other fissures in the park were created after an earthquake in 1789. The water in the fissure is meltwater from the nearby Langjökull glacier. After melting from the glacier, it takes a long journey through underground lava fields before reaching the fissure.

It’s approximated that it takes about 30-100 years for the glacier melt water to flow about 31 miles or 51 kilometers to the fissure. The water is not only crystal clear, but also absolute delicious to drink.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Silfra – silvery

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

How Rusty “The Brown One” Became a Ghost

Rusty is a boy that is the main character of this story. According to the legend, he was 16 years old in the late 1700s in Iceland, and one day is he was out walking during a bad storm. Unfortunately, Rusty only had rags on and it was hard for him to find shelter.

At one point he finally found a farm, knocked on the door and asked the farmer if he can stay there until the storm had passed. To Rusty’s surprise, the farmer turned him away. Rusty decided to continue on walking in the storm and sadly he ended up drowning in a large body of water.

After he died, I guess his ghost made the choose to come back and haunt the farmer tha denied him shelter on that fatal night. However, he didn‘t just haunt the farmer. He haunted the family of the farmer for generations. So, if anything went wrong it was blamed on Rusty, the Brown One.

Some examples include marriages not working out, farm equipment breaking, things going missing and so on. Apparently, Rusty‘s ghost was not satisfied with just haunting the family because it‘s said that he started to haunt travelers as well on the south coast.

Rusty Formed a “Ghost Gang”

A young woman that died in a similar way to Rusty ended up joining Rusty as a ghost to haunt travelers. In an even weirder twist to the story, the ghosts of Rusty and the young somehow caused the death of another person. This individual also became a ghost and joined their ghost gang to haunt people. If you plan to travel along Iceland‘s South Coast, know that there is a chance that you might be haunted by this trio of ghosts.

Random Fact of the Episode

Ghost stories are very popular in Icelandic folklore. Every region has a plethora of stories about ghosts, mostly people who we might consider to be wronged in some way, who come back to haunt people. I have some fascinating ones to share in the near future, so keep your eye out for that.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Ghost – draugur

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega

This is the third response episode for my new segment “Ask Jewells Anything About Iceland”. Thank you to everyone who sent in questions and if you would like to submit a question, you can do it here.

1. Should I exchange a small amount of currency before I leave? I have heard that Iceland is a cashless society, but I am thinking about tour guide tips or random purchases.- Christina

Iceland is not yet a cashless society, but we are certainly heading quickly in that direction. It isn’t necessary to take out cash in the local currency because debit and credit cards are the preferred method of payment. Also, tipping is not expected or encouraged because companies pay their employees livable wages for their work. You can, of course, take out cash to tip your guide or make random purchases if you prefer to pay that way but that’s up to you because it is not required.

2. Hi, I have another question! You wear such beautiful Icelandic sweaters on your Instagram. Where should I shop when I come in the spring? Somewhere that has really nice ones and doesn’t jack up the prices for tourists? – Alison

Kolaportið is flea market by the old harbor that is only open during weekends. There are some vendors there that are selling handmade Icelandic sweaters for a decent price.

Another place is the Handknitting association of Iceland. They have two locations in Reykjavík and all of their sweaters are handknit in the country. One helpful tip is to make sure you get the appropriate form at the store to get the 24% VAT (Value added tax) back at the airport when you leave the country. Iceland has that tax included in the price but they refund it for tourists on certain items.

3. “Hi Jewells,
I have recently discovered your podcast, and have been binge listening to episodes to prepare for my upcoming trip in May! ( I am so excited!) I am learning so much, and I appreciate hearing about your experiences! Thank you!
You mentioned that eating in restaurants is quite pricey in Iceland for a variety of reasons, including allowing restaurant owners to be able to pay their employees a living wage. Is it still customary to leave a tip for waitstaff? If so , is the recommnded amount the same as the US? (20-25%)
Thank you for taking the time to read my question.” – Vickie

The great news is that tipping is not part of the culture in Iceland, so you don’t have to factor in any % to your bill. This applies in every place, including cafes.

4. Hi Jewells! My family will be there in June. Is there a traditional event for summer solstice? – Ruth

Unlike other Nordic nations, Iceland does not have nationwide celebrations for the summer solstice. One place that has an annual event is in the far north. It is an island called Grímsey. They have a multiple day festival to celebrate the long and seemingly endless summer day. Here is where you can find the program for last year. I assume they will have the 2024 program soon. Please note that you need to take either a boat or plane to reach Grímsey. I have heard that many people get sea sick on the boat, so keep  that in mind if you choose that option.

5. “Thank you so much for your informative podcasts! My wife and I are planning to visit Iceland for the first time in October 2025. We believe that the best way to experience a new place is to immerse ourselves in it and to attempt to learn the language. What was your experience in learning the Icelandic language, and what do you recommend is a good way/resource to learn the language?” – Gerald

My recommendation for learning Icelandic is to get as much input of the language as you can in a way that you can relate to. Meaning, it helps to see shows or read text at your level or slightly above that you can understand enough to start internalizing it. Input that is repetitive can help you to become more familiar wth certain sounds and phrases. As a visitor, my episode on Useful Icelandic Phrases for Visitors is a good place to start. The other resources I listed below can help too.

1. LingQ is free for those learning Icelandic
2. Viltu læra íslensku
3. Íslenska fyrir alla
4. Drops – the only one on the list you have to pay for

6. Hi Jewels! Have you been to the “Sorcery Festival” in Hólmavík? It takes place in late April and looks really interesting. – Ruth

I have yet to attend that festival but it sounds like a lot of fun. If you get a chance to attend, Ruth, I would love to hear about your experience.

7. Hi Jewells! I was hoping you could talk about the tipping culture in Iceland. Thanks! – Julia

Thankfully, Iceland does not have a culture of tipping. Due to unions negotiating on behalf of workers for fair and livable wages from employees, tipping is not necessary or encouraged in Iceland.

8. Hi Jewells! Do you have a suggestion for whale watching in the south of Iceland? I won’t have enough time to make it to Húsavík, but I still want to go. I’m visiting in June and torn between whale watching in Reykjavik or Olafsvik.- Casey

Yes, whale watching from Reykjavík can be a lot of fun. You might see Minke whales, humpback whales, porpoises and dolphins. If you are looking for a company that does it from the harbor in the city, then I recommend Arctic Adventures. You can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% on any of their tours, including the whale watching one.

9. What itinerary would you suggest for a person with only 8 full days in Iceland who wants to see as much as possible. – Marilyn

There are many factors that come into play when planning a trip in Iceland, including when you plan to come, what kind of budget you have, the accommodations you prefer and so on. My suggestion, without knowing any of that information up front, is to split the eight days up as the following:

1 Day in Reykjavik when you arrive

1 Day on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

2 Days in North Iceland

1 Day around the Golden Circle

2 Days in the South/Southeast

1 Day either back in Reykjavik or the Reykjanes Peninsula

If you would like to discuss your trip in more detail, feel free to book a video consultation with me and I can help you plan a more personalized itinerary.

10. Which ice caves and glaciers have you visited and which ones are you favorites? – Ana

I like the Katla Ice Cave, Into the Glacier, and naturally forming ice caves that guides often find on the glacier during winter that do not have names because they are not expected to last into the summer. Arctic Adventures has tours like that and you can use my code Iceland10 to save 10% on any of their tours and activities.

11. My question is: What’s the meaning of the Icelandic phrases that you say at the end of each episode? I might have missed the explanation in one of your earlier episodes since I became only a regular listener a couple of months ago. I’ve always loved the sound of the Icelandic language and would love to know more about it, even though I’m not ready to commit to learning it yet 😀 – Jonas

The phrase I say at the end is „Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega“. It means thank you kindly for listening and see you soon.

12. We will be driving all around Iceland for about 12 days. How much ISK would you recommend we bring? – Stephanie

In the podcast episode I go more in-depth into the numbers but for two people during summer I have an estimate of about $8,000. That is kind of on the conservative end.

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

A Troll Lurking in Iceland’s East Fjords

Mjóifjörður (or narrow fjord) used to have up to 100 inhabitants centuries ago but it is now only about 14 people live there. During the winter it is common for the roads to be completely blocked off and the inhabitants can only be reached by boat.

The troll of this story was said to be around centuries ago when there were more people living in the fjord. She lived in a beautiful gorge called Prestagil. It‘s said tha the troll would use her magical powers to make the priests of the church in small farm called Fjörður go mad.

Priests Enchanted by a Hungry Troll

 Her routine was to wait fo the pastor to be at the pulpit of the church on Sunday and then she would wave her hand outside the pulpit window. The pastor would see this and it would somehow enchant him to say:

Tear out my guts and my heart

Off to the gorge I’ll depart

Tear out my lust and my seed

To Mjóifjörður gorge I shall speed

After saying this, the priest would run out of the church as fast as he could into the gorge where the troll lived and was never seen again. Due to the Troll telling a traveler once that she was nibbling on the head of a former priest of the Fjörður, news spread that the troll was eating the men.

Several priests took the position over the years and each one disappeared after being enchanted by the troll. Naturally, priests became too afraid to serve there because they didn’t want to become Troll food.

A Brave Priest Comes Along

Finally, a priest volunteered even though he knew of the danger. What this priest did differently than the others was that he came up with a plan. Before his first mass, he assembled a group of men that normally attended the church.

He instructed them to do the following: When the troll tried to enchant him, six men will hold him back from running out of the church, another six will ring the church bells, and ten men will hold the church doors shut.

The fateful Sunday arrived and just as expected, the Troll waved her hand at the pulpit window. The priest immediately became enchanted and said the rhyme.

All of the men jumped into action. While the men held the priest back from fleeing the church, the other men rang the church bells like crazy. When the troll heard the bells she fled into the gorge and was never seen again.

Random Fact of the Episode

Klifbrekkufossar is a seven tiered waterfall in Mjóifjörður that is worth seeing if you are in the area and have time to drive into this fjord.

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Prestagil – Pastor’s Gorge

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

Interviews are one of my favorite things to do for the podcast, so I was delighted when Laura was available to come on and share about her experience moving from the San Francisco Bay area to one of the most remote parts of the Westfjords in Iceland.

Background About Laura Alice Watt

Laura Alice Watt is a professor emerita of environmental history and policy at Sonoma State University in Northern California. She arrived in the Westfjords in July 2020 with a Fulbright-NSF Arctic Scholar grant to conduct historical research in Iceland, and decided to stay long-term.  She teaches occasional courses at the University Centre of the Westfjords, where she also provides writing support for graduate students with their thesis projects.

Before taking early retirement from Sonoma State, she spent fifteen years as professor in the Department of Geography, Environment, and Planning, and also Graduate Coordinator for SSU’s Cultural Resource Management masters program. She now lives on the northern shore of Dýrafjörður with her two cats, and is an avid photographer and knitter.

Questions I Asked Laura During the Interview

• Where did you grow up in the US?
• What was your profession while living in the US?
• What inspired you to come to Iceland?
• When did you know you wanted to stay here?
• Why did you choose the Westfjords to live in Iceland?
• What do you like about living in Iceland?
• What do you dislike about living in Iceland?
• What do you miss from the US (if anything at all)?
• Do you ever see yourself moving back to the US?
• How has your Icelandic learning journey been since moving here?
• What advice do you have for people who want to move to Iceland?
• What is your favorite Icelandic word or phrase?

Icelandic Phrase of the Episode

Glöggt er gests augað – Keen is the eye of the guest

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.

This episode is part of my Folklore Friday series, where I am sharing fascinating stories from Icelandic folklore on Fridays throughout 2024.

What is a Skuggabaldur?

The Skuggabaldur is a fascinating animal in Icelandic folklore. Whether or not this type of animal really exists is hard to say but there are some interesting stories about it. A Skuggabaldur is created when a female arctic fox and a male cat or Tom cat get together and procreate.

If a male arctic fox and a female cat procreate, it is called a Skoffín. However, we are just going to focus on the Skuggabaldur for this episode. These animals are known to have very intense bites that inflict a lot of pain and death. Guns are not much use against them unless you are using silver bullets.

The Most Popular Skuggabaldur Story

One day in the north, particularly near Blönduós, a Skuggabaldur had been inflicting a lot of damage on the livestock in the area. The farmers there decided to hunt it down. They did eventually find the animal in Blöndugil, which is a small canyon in the area. One of the hunters ended up stabbing it.

Before the Skuggabaldur was killed, it said to tell the Tom Cat at Bollastaðir that the Skuggabaldur had been stabbed in the canyon. The people that were witnesses to this thought it was quite strange that this creature had a message for a cat but whatever.

The person who ended up stabbing and killing the Skuggabaldur was staying in Bollastaðir that evening. As he was recounting his story about killing the Skuggabaldur, he repeated what the message the creature has said to tell the Tom Cat.

Well, there was a Tom Cat listening in the rafters to the story and when he heard what the Skuggabaldur had said, it lept down to attack the man. It sunk its claws and teeth deep into the man’s neck and would not let go. The only way to stop the cat was to chop off its head. By that time, the man was already dead. I don‘t know if the Tom Cat was a relative of the Skuggabaldur but it certainly got revenge for its death.

Random Fact of the Episode

There is a book called “Skuggabaldur” by a well-known Icelandic poet and author named Sjón. In English, the book is called „The Blue Fox“. I have yet to read it but I want to. Apparently, knowing about the Skuggabaldur creature gives some deep insight into understanding all that is going on in this book.

According to one reviewer of the book:

“The Blue Fox,” by Sjon, is a dark, yet playful and humorous fable about a kind man, an evil man, a simpleton, and a blue fox. It is about fate, life, and human nature. The novella deals with evil cloaked in religion and justice being delivered in mysterious ways. It is full of hidden meaning, subtlety, and delightful intellectually amusing diversions.”

Icelandic Word of the Episode

Skuggabaldur – roughly translates to a shadow cat

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Þakka þér kærlega fyrir að hlusta og sjáumst fljótlega.