In today’s show surfing’s foremost historian reveals the pro surfer who saved his life at age 12, the gift of finding 50 year old surf footage from his youth, the unsung heroes lost to surf history, how history is shaped by those who elect to share it, and why is more important than ever to cement archiving surf history. 

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In today’s episode Holly Beck recounts her rapid rise into professional surfing and disillusionment, becoming an inadvertent model, expatriate freedoms, the fallacy of reality TV, and the holistic healing inherent to surfing. Enjoy! 

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Pipeline aficionado Liam McNamara joins us to discuss how growing up in a commune on welfare informed his approach to surfing on the North Shore, the single financial decision that salvaged his career earnings, how shepherding Hawaii’s youth rectifies past misdeeds, and why his last session at Pipe was nearly his last day on earth. Enjoy!

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In today’s show we hear from Jersey board builder Brian Wynn about how he built a career on doing what no else wanted to do, the fastest way to expedite one’s learning curve, why staying small is recession safe, and how ice hockey staves off burn-out. Enjoy!

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In today’s show our current and 2x longboard champ joins us to discuss how achieving a life goal can dilute future ambition, why pro longboarders net negative $ on Tour, the WSL’s reason for not acknowledging her as their youngest ever world champ, the ongoing influence of Terry Martin, and how she co-founded a women surf news media outlet. Enjoy!

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In today’s show double-board certified M.D. Paul Saladino joins David and Brad Gerlach to discuss how to reverse chronic illness through diet, why plants are bad to eat, our culture’s obsession with optimizing performance, and how surfing has redirected his lifestyle choices. Enjoy!

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In today’s show, world-renown photographer Chris Burkard explains that earning access to opportunity taught him the value of saying “no”, how a surf trip to Iceland inspired him relocate his family, why three days of darkness helped him unbury his core truth, and why his best work is still created in the ocean. Enjoy!

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In today’s episode Richie charts the rise and fall of Wave Tools, why shaping his own boards hindered his title hopes, how a radical lesson in humility transformed his worldview, why he never understood the concept of “soul” surfer until he quit surfing, his regrets attempting to raise a professional surf daughter, and why his next chapter will be focused on attempting to feel joy. Enjoy!

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Polarizing professional surf icon of the 80s/90s, Richie Collins, reflects on the benefits and consequence of being raised by a local enforcer, learning to live up to the family reputation and then taking it too far, the inescapable dread of regret, why he doesn’t surf anymore, and the deep value of knowing one’s family history. Enjoy! 

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Surf biz stalwart and magnate Eric Crane explains the virtue of starting at the bottom, reflects on the dangers of never saying “no”, give thanks for almost losing everything, attempts to integrate family life with blind professional ambition, and discovers why being a balanced human makes him a more competent CEO. Enjoy!

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Today Dick Metz details his friendship with Rabbit Kekai, explains how his real estate empire was built from one vacant lot in Aspen, why buying back the Hobie stores (four times) was more profitable than selling them, and how archiving surf history through surfboards has become his life’s greatest work. Enjoy!

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