The Nettle Dress is available to stream online from November 15–December 2, 2024.

Most of us avoid nettles, thinking of them as weeds whose little stinging hairs can inject a painful toxin into the unexpecting walker. But strolling through the woods near his home in England, Allan Brown was captivated by the tall native plants. Knowing that textile cultures across the world have produced cloth from nettles, he wanted to learn more about cloth made with nettle fiber.

Except for a few exceptions—giant Himalayan nettles and ramie, which is a non-stinging plant in the nettle family—the era of nettle textiles is over. But thousands of years ago, nettle cloth and cordage fulfilled human needs for garments and tools. Like other ancient textiles, nettle cloth has almost entirely disappeared, rotted away and returned to the soil.

Allan knew that the only way to experience cloth made from nettle would be to create it himself, so he set about processing, spinning, and weaving fabric from stands of nettles that grew wild in the woods. Before he could get down to cloth-making, though, he had to learn how to extract the fiber from the plant—a process without contemporary documentation or a skilled teacher. (The stinging parts of the plant are removed during processing, so textiles made from nettle fiber feel more like cotton or linen than stinging barbs.)

He learned to spin, which proved not only the most time-consuming but also the most meaningful part of the project. “I just found spinning so therapeutic,” he says. He felt the solace of handspinning keenly when his wife, Alex, passed away over the course of his nettle exploration.

In the aftermath of Alex dying, my world grew very small, my perimeters drew in, and I was just looking after the family. Sometimes my only connection to a wider world was just going out and collecting nettles, but it was within a really small geographical margin. So I think events sort of led me to, rather than looking for bigger and more, I tuned into the familiar, going in deeper and seeing what I could find and what I’d previously overlooked. And realizing, oh my goodness—all these plants, they provide dyes, these plants provide fibers, and they’re all there right on my doorstep and have been under my nose all along. So it feels like it’s really connected me to a sense of place in a much deeper way than perhaps I had been before.

As he spun years’ worth of yarn, Allan decided that the nettle project would culimate in a dress. A simple shape, cut efficiently from a narrow width of cloth, would be enough to create a dress for his daughter Oonagh, so he wove yards of plain-weave fabric and even spun the sewing thread to stitch the piece together. Seven years after his first experiments with nettle fiber, he slipped a handmade nettle dress over her head.

Following Allan on his exploration, his film-director friend Dylan Howitt captured the stages of the process and has released a film called The Nettle Dress. The film has been released in a number of markets, including the United Kingdom, and some audiences have been fortunate to meet the fiber artist and even touch the dress at a screening.

The story of the dress and its creator remind us that the long history of foraged, handmade cloth can be ours again if we have the dedication to revive it.

Links

The Nettle Dress film website

The Nettle Dress on Instagram

"The Nettle Dress: A Tale of Love and Healing review by Linda Ligon
Nettles for Textiles Facebook group

Nettles for Textiles web page

From Sting to Spin, a History of Nettle Fibre by Gillian Edom

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway’s array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

You’re ready to start a new project but don’t have the right yarn, or you have the yarn but not the right tool. Yarn Barn of Kansas can help! They stock a wide range of materials and equipment for knitting, weaving, spinning, and crochet. They ship all over the country, usually within a day or two of receiving the order. Plan your project this week, start working on it next week! See yarnbarn-ks.com to get started.

Knitters know Manos del Uruguay for their yarns’ rich tonal colors, but the story of women’s empowerment and community benefit enriches every skein. Discover 17 yarn bases from laceweight to super bulky made and dyed at an artisan owned cooperative in Uruguay. Ask for Manos at your local retailer or visit FairmountFibers.com.

Creating consciously crafted fibers and patterns is more than just a focus for Blue Sky Fibers, it’s their passion. Ever since they started with a small herd of alpacas in a Minnesota backyard, they’ve been committed to making yarn in the best way possible to show off its natural beauty. While their exclusive offerings have grown beyond alpaca to include wool, organic cotton, and silk, their desire for exciting makers about natural fibers hasn’t changed one bit. It all winds back to the yarn, ensuring that every precious, handmade hank is lovingly filled with endless inspiration. blueskyfibers.com

Melvenea Hodges nurtures a small crop of cotton in her back yard in South Bend, Indiana. Besides beautiful foliage and some of her favorite fiber to spin, she tends her plants to celebrate what she can create with her own hands—not just beautiful textiles but a connection to her heritage and a source of peace.

As a primary school teacher, her working days are hectic, but she and a friend have a pact to save some creativity for themselves. Although her spinning and weaving projects are ambitious, she doesn't confuse creativity with productivity. The magic happens, she says, "once we take away the element of creating for some kind of purpose and just accept that creating is a natural part of being and that it is inherent in us."

That creativity takes the form of exploring Scandinavian weaving, spinning to weave a traditional overshot coverlet, or painting whimsical wooden jewelry. No matter what, though, she grounds each day by spinning cotton, seated on the floor with her back to a wall, losing her thoughts as her spindle turns.

"If your life's whirlwind is whirling too fast," she advises, "get yourself a spindle."

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

KnitPicks.com has been serving the knitting community for over 20 years and believes knitting is for everyone, which is why they work hard to make knitting accessible, affordable, and approachable. Knit Picks responsibly sources its fiber to create an extensive selection of affordable yarns like High Desert from Shaniko Wool Company in Oregon. Are you looking for an ethical, eco-friendly yarn to try? Look no further than Knit Picks’ Eco yarn line. Need needles? Knit Picks makes a selection for knitters right at their Vancouver, Washington headquarters. KnitPicks.com—a place for every knitter.

Knitters know Manos del Uruguay for their yarns’ rich tonal colors, but the story of women’s empowerment and community benefit enriches every skein. Discover 17 yarn bases from laceweight to super bulky made and dyed at an artisan owned cooperative in Uruguay. Ask for Manos at your local retailer or visit FairmountFibers.com.

Creating consciously crafted fibers and patterns is more than just a focus for Blue Sky Fibers, it’s their passion. Ever since they started with a small herd of alpacas in a Minnesota backyard, they’ve been committed to making yarn in the best way possible to show off its natural beauty. While their exclusive offerings have grown beyond alpaca to include wool, organic cotton, and silk, their desire for exciting makers about natural fibers hasn’t changed one bit. It all winds back to the yarn, ensuring that every precious, handmade hank is lovingly filled with endless inspiration. blueskyfibers.com

Exploring the textile traditions of her Scandinavian ancestors, supporting Indigenous Andean weavers in preserving their traditions, or producing material for contemporary fiber artists, Anita finds connection between makers.

From hygge to the trendy Scandi Style, the design influence of Scandiavian countries has never been more popular. But beneath the graphic lines and bright colors, what is the fiber art and culture of Nordic countries?

Anita Osterhaug was raised in a family whose pride in their Norwegian heritage ran deeper than cuisine and home décor. As a weaver, she loved exploring her fiber-art roots and the rich traditions of Scandinavian countries. Underlying the folk art and food, she found a set of values connecting the culture: the importance of nature, community, craftsmanship, and sustainability. In her book Nordic Hands, Anita collected projects in knitting, felting, and weaving that explore those values, inviting contributors to share designs that explore their own connections with Scandinavia.

A former editor of Handwoven magazine, Anita has a particular affection for the woven textiles of Scandinavia. Weaving also connects her with another of her passions, half a world away. As a board member of Andean Textile Arts, she works to support Andean weavers in Peru and Bolivia in practicing the ancient weaving skills of their ancestors. The group raises funds to help educate young Andean weavers about their heritage and supports economic development for master weavers to continue their exquisite traditional crafts.

Although the weavers of her family tradition and Andean weavers may use different materials, motifs, and equipment, Anita sees a common bond between them. Among weavers, she says, there is always a common language.

Links

Anita Osterhaug’s website

Nordic Hands: 25 Fiber Craft Projects to Discover Scandinavian Culture

Vesterheim Norwegian-American Museum

Andean Textile Arts

Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco (CTTC)

Long Thread Podcast: Laurann Gilbertson

Weaving with Linen with Tom Knisely

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

Learning how to weave but need the right shuttle? Hooked on knitting and in search of a lofty yarn? Yarn Barn of Kansas has been your partner in fiber since 1971. Whether you are around the corner from the Yarn Barn of Kansas, or around the country, they are truly your "local yarn store" with an experienced staff to answer all your fiber questions. Visit yarnbarn-ks.com to shop, learn, and explore.

Sustainability and regenerative ranching have been a way of life for the ranches of Shaniko Wool Company for decades. They are the first “farm group” in the U.S. to achieve certification to the rigorous international Responsible Wool Standard and NATIVA Regenerative. Shaniko ranches raise Merino/Rambouillet sheep in the Western United States, delivering a fully traceable wool supply that gives back to the Earth and its ecosystems. To learn more, and discover Shaniko’s yarn partners, visit ShanikoWoolCompany.com.

Knitters know Manos del Uruguay for their yarns’ rich tonal colors, but the story of women’s empowerment and community benefit enriches every skein. Discover 17 yarn bases from laceweight to super bulky made and dyed at an artisan owned cooperative in Uruguay. Ask for Manos at your local retailer or visit FairmountFibers.com.

When you picture lace, what comes to mind: an old-fashioned once-white piece of Victorian embellishment? The elegant, possibly itchy decoration on a wedding gown? If you are a needleworker, you might picture an array of bobbins leashed to a cluster of pins and arrayed on a pillow, or a tatting shuttle, or a steel crochet hook. All of these images would be correct—but capture the tiniest slice of the world’s laces.

As a PhD student, Elena Kanagy-Loux considers lace through the lenses of history, culture, and gender. How have textile artisans around the world developed lace strutures? Who was making lace—and who was wearing it? (For what matter, what is lace, anyway?) Beyond our assumptions about lace are delightful surprises: Wearing lace previously denoted power and wealth rather than femininity. Traditional lace may include a riot of color. Although they look delicate, lace fabrics can be surprisingly durable.

Outside her academic pursuits, Elena takes a more hands-on view of lace. Having studied a variety of methods, she fell in love with bobbin lace, which seemed to click in her mind when she sat down at a lacemaking pillow. Like most of our readers, Elena generally creates lace for her own interest and enjoyment, though she has accepted several notable commissions: a collar presented to Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg by Columbia Law School on the 25th anniversary of her investiture to the Supreme court, and a collar designed for the Threads of Power exhibit at the Bard Graduate Center. In addition to her own work, she teaches extensively, finding an audience of needleworkers eager to learn bobbin lace or improve their skills. She co-founded the Brooklyn Lace Guild, which offers classes as well as a community of lacemakers

Elena often hears from non-makers, “Isn’t that a dying art?” She replies—in her classes, her needlework, and her wardrobe (which often includes lace in her colorful, contemporary style)—“Lacemaking is a thriving art!”

Links

Elena Kanagy-Loux’s website

Find Elena on Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok

Thr Brooklyn Lace Guild, which Elena co-founded, is hosting its first exhibition, “Little Lace: The Work of Brooklyn Lace Guild,” from October 10, 2024, through January 11, 2025.

See the Brooklyn Lace Guild at the Kings County Fiber Festival at the Old Stone House, Brooklyn, on October 12, 2024, from 10 am to 5 pm.

The International Organization of Lace, Inc. hosts conventions and maintains a list of chapters and events for those interested in learning about lacemaking.

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You'll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you'll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

KnitPicks.com has been serving the knitting community for over 20 years and believes knitting is for everyone, which is why they work hard to make knitting accessible, affordable, and approachable. Knit Picks responsibly sources its fiber to create an extensive selection of affordable yarns like High Desert from Shaniko Wool Company in Oregon. Are you looking for an ethical, eco-friendly yarn to try? Look no further than Knit Picks’ Eco yarn line. Need needles? Knit Picks makes a selection for knitters right at their Vancouver, Washington headquarters. KnitPicks.com—a place for every knitter.

Knitters know Manos del Uruguay for their yarns’ rich tonal colors, but the story of women’s empowerment and community benefit enriches every skein. Discover 17 yarn bases from laceweight to super bulky made and dyed at an artisan owned cooperative in Uruguay. Ask for Manos at your local retailer or visit FairmountFibers.com.

Creating consciously crafted fibers and patterns is more than just a focus for Blue Sky Fibers, it’s their passion. Ever since they started with a small herd of alpacas in a Minnesota backyard, they’ve been committed to making yarn in the best way possible to show off its natural beauty. While their exclusive offerings have grown beyond alpaca to include wool, organic cotton, and silk, their desire for exciting makers about natural fibers hasn’t changed one bit. It all winds back to the yarn, ensuring that every precious, handmade hank is lovingly filled with endless inspiration. blueskyfibers.com

Nanne Kennedy has her feet firmly planted in the soil of midcoast Maine. Growing up on a farm near the ocean, she could smell the salt air and small local factories, and she started saving in her “future farm fund” when she was 12. Eminently practical, she looked for ways that her farm could make her a living. “I'm a New England Yankee, and self reliance is really important,” she says. “So it’s always been a critical theme to me that, yes, you do the right thing, but it sure as heck has to make economic sense in a way that is good today, but good forever.”

Raising sheep could offer multiple sources of income, but the available finewool sheep were poorly suited to her climate. Studying in New Zealand, she grew interested in Polwarth sheep, which combine finewool and longwool genetics. Nanne imported genetic material from New Zealand and set about establishing the breed in the United States, seeking sheep with dense, fine fleeces; long staples; excellent parasite resistance; and sound feet. After decades of careful breeding, her flock has exceeded her expectations for wool and healthy animals.

To increase the value of her wool, Nanne learned to dye yarn. Once again seeking an economic and environmental solution, she developed a unique system using seawater to provide the salts and sunshine to warm the dyepaths. Seacolors Yarns are what Nanne calls bioregional, produced within 5 hours of Meadowcroft Farm.

Like many farmers, Nanne works on a variety of projects at the same time. The popular Maine blankets she developed in partnership with other small textile manufacturers have hit a snag with the retirement of the napping machine used in finishing, but she partners with local knitters and crocheters to offer unique handmade sweaters. She runs a short-term farmstay and also offers educational opportunities for aspiring shepherds. She vends at farmer’s markets and hosts fiber art classes.

At least, that’s some of what she was doing when we spoke. By the time you hear this interview, who knows what Nanne Kennedy will have dreamed up to benefit her animals, ecosystem, and regional economy?

Links

Visit Nanne Kennedy’s farm, yarn store, and other projects at GetWool.com.

Learn about the dye process for Seacolors Yarn and buy it online.

Meadowcroft Farm raises Polwarth sheep. Naturally colored roving is available on the Seacolors Wool website.

Watch a video of Meadowcroft Farm, Polwarth sheep, and Nanne in the video The Science of Soft.

Stay in the farm’s Airbnb, or stay longer with a Small Ruminant Residency or Sheep Doula Apprenticeship.

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway’s array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

You’re ready to start a new project but don’t have the right yarn, or you have the yarn but not the right tool. Yarn Barn of Kansas can help! They stock a wide range of materials and equipment for knitting, weaving, spinning, and crochet. They ship all over the country, usually within a day or two of receiving the order. Plan your project this week, start working on it next week! See yarnbarn-ks.com to get started.

Sustainability and regenerative ranching have been a way of life for the ranches of Shaniko Wool Company for decades. They are the first “farm group” in the U.S. to achieve certification to the rigorous international Responsible Wool Standard and NATIVA Regenerative. Shaniko ranches raise Merino/Rambouillet sheep in the Western United States, delivering a fully traceable wool supply that gives back to the Earth and its ecosystems. To learn more, and discover Shaniko’s yarn partners, visit ShanikoWoolCompany.com.

The Adirondack Wool and Arts Festival is the perfect way to spend a weekend surrounded by over 150 craft vendors in Greenwich, New York. Discover a curated group of vendors featuring the best of wool and artisan crafters. Throughout the weekend enjoy workshops, free horse drawn wagon rides, free kids’ crafts, a fiber sheep show, and a sanctioned cashmere goat show. Join us September 21 & 22, 2024, and every fall! For more information visit adkwoolandarts.com.

When Knit Picks was founded by husband and wife team Kelly and Bob Petkun in 2002, the company began with a mail-order catalog and soon added online purchasing. Buying yarn online seemed both strange and inevitable: knitters began choosing yarns that they could only see onscreen, in the early days of functional search engines, at a time when many people had internet only at the office if at all. But for crafters who lacked easy access to a local yarn store or even a big-box craft store, being able to order craft supplies online broadened the horizons of knitting.

After carrying other companies’ yarns for several years, the Petkuns began working directly with mills in South America to create yarn lines that were exclusive to Knit Picks. Several of their first yarns, including Wool of the Andes, Andean Treasure, and Alpaca Cloud, are still available (though the Butterfly Kisses eyelash yarn that was a staple of the early 2000’s has been discontinued). With the success of their exclusive yarns, Knit Picks began working with manufacturers to create their own tools, most significantly an extensive range of knitting needles.

Sustainability-Minded Yarns

By making their yarns available directly to knitters, Knit Picks was able to keep their prices low and developed a reputation for affordability. Perhaps less well known, though, have been their efforts to offer sustainably produced yarns. In this episode, Alexis Wilson explains that the company recently completed the process to certify their warehouse to the Responsible Wool Standard, the last link in the chain that makes their 100% US-made High Desert yarn line fully RWS-certified. High Desert yarns use Shaniko Wool, sourced from ranches that meet multiple environmental and social responsibility standards and are demonstrated to capture carbon in the soil.

Even before the official RWS certification, Alexis observes, Knit Picks purchased their wool, alpaca, and mohair from certified Responsible Alpaca Standard, Responsible Mohair Standard, and RWS sources. In addition to natural-fiber yarns, they have added several lines that use innovative methods of recycling or reclaiming waste fibers: Oceana, which features Seaqual Upcycled Marine Plastic; Salvage, which contains recycled cotton; and Samia, which includes cupro, a silky fiber made from waste cotton produced in a closed-loop process. The environmental concern extends to their wooden needles, which are made from sustainably harvested forests.

For Every Knitter (and Dyer and Weaver and Spinner)

Although “knit” is right in the name, Knit Picks offers products for other crafts as well (and not just through their sister brand Crochet.com). In addition to finished yarns, Knit Picks offers the Bare line of popular yarns ready to be dyed by consumers, as well as a variety of natural and synthetic dye products. Spinners can select the wool blends used in some popular Knit Picks yarns as processed wool tops to make their own yarns. For weavers and machine knitters, the popular Dishie cotton comes on cones as well as in balls, and Alexis reveals that some weights of their staple yarns Wool of the Andes and Palette will be offered on cones soon, too.

For nearly 20 years, Knit Picks produced almost every product offered on the site. In recent years, though, they have started supplementing their offerings with select yarns that they believe customers would enjoy, such as Kelbourne Woolens Germantown and Baa Ram Ewe Woodnote. Alexis looks forward to adding yarns from Berroco in upcoming months.

In this Spotlight Episode, discover the sustainable side of Knit Picks.

Links

• KnitPicks.com
  
• High Desert yarn is Knit Picks’s 100% made in America, fully traceable, Responsible Wool Standard-certified yarn featuring Shaniko Wool.
  
• Knit Picks’s Learning Center includes information about the company and its products as well as knitting instruction and links to the podcast and blog.
  
• The Freebies page includes a delightful collection of printable tags, care instructions, cheat sheets, and other knitting information you didn’t know you needed.
  

This episode is brought to you by:

KnitPicks.com has been serving the knitting community for over 20 years and believes knitting is for everyone, which is why they work hard to make knitting accessible, affordable, and approachable. Knit Picks responsibly sources its fiber to create an extensive selection of affordable yarns like High Desert from Shaniko Wool Company in Oregon. Are you looking for an ethical, eco-friendly yarn to try? Look no further than Knit Picks’ Eco yarn line. Need needles? Knit Picks makes a selection for knitters right at their Vancouver, Washington headquarters.

KnitPicks.com—a place for every knitter.

Laverne Waddington discovered weaving by accident—bike accident, to be precise. Recuperating from a mountain biking crash in Utah, she discovered a book on Navajo weaving and was immediately intrigued. A local exhibit of Diné textiles enthralled her, and she set about learning to weave in the Navajo style. Returning to Patagonia, where she had been living, she built a simple loom and explored weaving on her own until it became clear that she would need to move north to satify her hunger for weaving knowledge, settling in Bolivia.

Over the following decades, Laverne traveled in South and Central America, learning backstrap techniques from indigenous weavers. Her curiosity has led her to the Andean Highlands, Guatemala, and other regions to learn hand-manipulated and pick-up methods and patterns from skilled local weavers.

Laverne loves to explore complex and intricate weaving styles, enjoying the way that each inch of warp and weft passes through her hands in a variety of pick-up techniques. Weaving on a backstrap loom, she sits inside each weaving project. Through videos, online classes, books, and ebooks, she teaches other weavers how to set up a backstrap loom for themselves and weave a variety of patterns. Teaching backstrap and pick-up techniques is as much a part of her practice as deepening her understanding of the weaving structures.

In this episode, discover Laverne Waddington’s passions and processes.

Links

Laverne has maintained a blog and weaving journal on her website since 2009.

Laverne’s books are available from Taproot Video.

Laverne offers a number of tutorials of techniques she practices as well as videos of a variety of weaving techniques and traditions.

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

KnitPicks.com has been serving the knitting community for over 20 years and believes knitting is for everyone, which is why they work hard to make knitting accessible, affordable, and approachable. Knit Picks responsibly sources its fiber to create an extensive selection of affordable yarns like High Desert from Shaniko Wool Company in Oregon. Are you looking for an ethical, eco-friendly yarn to try? Look no further than Knit Picks’ Eco yarn line. Need needles? Knit Picks makes a selection for knitters right at their Vancouver, Washington headquarters.

KnitPicks.com—a place for every knitter.

The Adirondack Wool and Arts Festival is the perfect way to spend a weekend surrounded by over 150 craft vendors in Greenwich, New York. Discover a curated group of vendors featuring the best of wool and artisan crafters. Throughout the weekend enjoy workshops, free horse drawn wagon rides, free kids’ crafts, a fiber sheep show, and a sanctioned cashmere goat show. Join us September 21 & 22, 2024, and every fall! For more information visit adkwoolandarts.com.

Embrace the potential of your phone’s camera, choose indirect lighting (not a flash) to show texture, and get your knits off the ground—these are just a few pieces of Gale Zucker’s advice for how to take knitting photos you love. Whether she’s shooting in a studio or a barnyard, Gale uses her camera to bring her subjects to life.

Gale grew up in a family where everyone learned to knit, and the craft has been a constant since childhood. With a love for the storytelling potential of photography, she studied photojournalism, becoming a stringer for The New York Times and shooting for national publications. Her subjects ranged from intensely serious, even grim, to lighthearted and quirky.

Occasionally she found herself on the sheep beat, sent to farms to photograph stories for lifestyle publications. During the knitting-blog boom, she started a website and called it “She Shoots Sheep Shots,” all while continuing her photojournalism and commercial photography work. Invited to propose an idea for a book, she surprised her agent by suggesting a series of photos and profiles of fiber farms across the country, which became the book Shear Spirit. Her work has grown to include more knitting and fiber projects—subjects in which she shares her knowledge in this episode.

Although she still photographs a range of commercial and lifestyle projects, Gale finds her lifelong love of knitting thoroughly intertwined with her professional work. And when she’s lucky, she still gets to shoot sheep shots.

Links

Gale Zucker website

She Shoots Sheep Shots

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

Yarn Barn of Kansas

Learning how to weave but need the right shuttle? Hooked on knitting and in search of a lofty yarn? Yarn Barn of Kansas has been your partner in fiber since 1971. Whether you are around the corner from the Yarn Barn of Kansas, or around the country, they are truly your "local yarn store" with an experienced staff to answer all your fiber questions. Visit yarnbarn-ks.com to shop, learn, and explore.

Shaniko Wool Company
Sustainability and regenerative ranching have been a way of life for the ranches of Shaniko Wool Company for decades. They are the first “farm group” in the U.S. to achieve certification to the rigorous international Responsible Wool Standard and NATIVA Regenerative. Shaniko ranches raise Merino/Rambouillet sheep in the Western United States, delivering a fully traceable wool supply that gives back to the Earth and its ecosystems. To learn more, and discover Shaniko’s yarn partners, visit ShanikoWoolCompany.com.

Adirondack Wool and Arts Festival
The Adirondack Wool and Arts Festival is the perfect way to spend a weekend surrounded by over 150 craft vendors in Greenwich, New York. Discover a curated group of vendors featuring the best of wool and artisan crafters. Throughout the weekend enjoy workshops, free horse drawn wagon rides, free kids’ crafts, a fiber sheep show, and a sanctioned cashmere goat show. Join us September 21 & 22, 2024, and every fall! For more information visit adkwoolandarts.com.

Have you ever opened a book or seen a photograph and thought to yourself, “I have to learn to do that”?

When Emily Lymm first fell in love with knitting, she wondered casually if she could turn her passion for fiber arts into a profession. Not seeing many successful pathways to a career in knitting, she continued as a graphic designer. She loved the visual problem-solving of her job, but as time went by, she wished that she could do more to live her values of conservation and environmental responsibility.

Then one day, she picked up a copy of Rebecca Burgess’s book Fibershed and was immediately captivated with the idea of natural dyeing. She was so certain that she had found her path that she invested in dyepots and equipment, and she set out to learn the nuanced skills to create the colors of her dreams in yarn.

She initially experimented with processing her own fiber and having it milled into yarn but quickly realized that she would need to find a millspun option. Responsibly raised non-superwash wool yarns were difficult to find in the variety of weights that she would need to rely on, so she resorted to cold-calling farms in her home state of Oregon. One of her calls reached the perfect partner: Jeanne Carver, owner of Imperial Stock Ranch, produced just the kind of wool that Emily was hoping for—and her new project, Shaniko Wool Company, was beginning to produce the first fully traceable, RWS-certified yarn in the United States. Emily could base her business on yarn that is demonstrated to sequester carbon in the soil, milled within the United States.

The path to developing her color range has led her to develop colors using with extracts, home-grown dyestuffs, and a variety of other dye materials. She has found old methods for creating richly saturated colors that coax unexpected colors out of familiar dye materials. She has learned to use time and temperature in her dye chemistry.

In this episode, learn how one woman has creates a hand-dyed yarn business—sustainably.

Links

Wool & Palette’s website and online shop

Emily sources her non-superwash Merino/Rambouillet wool from Shaniko Wool. Learn more about the company from founder Jeanne Carver in her episode of the Long Thread Podcast.

Aurora Silk offers natural dye supplies.

Jenny Balfour-Paul, Dominique Cardon, and Anita Quye wrote about the Crutchfield Archive, a collection of natural-dye manuals dating to the 18th century, in Nature's Colorways.

Rebecca Burgess’s books [Fibershed: Growing a Movement of Farmers, Fashion Activists, and Makers for a New Textile Economy], (https://www.chelseagreen.com/product/fibershed/) and Harvesting Color: How to Find Plants and Make Natural Dyes
Color: A Natural History of the Palette by Victoria Finlay (Random House, 2004)

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

KnitPicks.com has been serving the knitting community for over 20 years and believes knitting is for everyone, which is why they work hard to make knitting accessible, affordable, and approachable. Knit Picks responsibly sources its fiber to create an extensive selection of affordable yarns like High Desert from Shaniko Wool Company in Oregon. Are you looking for an ethical, eco-friendly yarn to try? Look no further than Knit Picks’ Eco yarn line. Need needles? Knit Picks makes a selection for knitters right at their Vancouver, Washington headquarters.

KnitPicks.com—a place for every knitter.

The Adirondack Wool and Arts Festival is the perfect way to spend a weekend surrounded by over 150 craft vendors in Greenwich, New York. Discover a curated group of vendors featuring the best of wool and artisan crafters. Throughout the weekend enjoy workshops, free horse drawn wagon rides, free kids’ crafts, a fiber sheep show, and a sanctioned cashmere goat show. Join us September 21 & 22, 2024, and every fall! For more information visit adkwoolandarts.com.

Tommye McClure Scanlin had a choice. To make the images she wanted to create with weaving, she could either pursue complex forms of weaving that rely on dobby, jacquard, and draw-loom technology—or she could go the other way and place every color and pick by hand using tapestry techniques and a very simple loom. Preferring a drawing pencil to a calculator, she made the choice that now seems inevitable and dove headlong into tapestry.

She speaks of herself modestly as a “picture-maker,” but Tommye’s imagery reveals the richness of her surroundings. She has lived most of her life in the Southern Appalachian region of North Georgia, and her artwork delves deeply into the natural world that surrounds her. Her woven work comprises many leaves and plants as well as feathers, seeds, and stones. The restrained subject matter is all the better to play with a variety of styles and perspectives.

In addition to her main artistic works, Tommye explores creativity through formal restrictions: using the roll of a die to direct her next color, or challenging herself to add an installment each day in a woven diary. The woven diary project has developed into not only a series of beautiful records spanning more than a decade but also her latest book. Marking Time with Fabric and Thread : Calendars, Diaries, and Journals within Your Fiber Craft describes the daily textile practice of not only weavers but also quilters, embroiderers, and other fiber artists.

Tommye’s first steps in fiber art came as an art teacher, and she went on to establish the fiber arts program at the University of North Georgia. Now retired from her academic career, she has taught at programs such as the John C. Campbell Folk School, Arrowmont, and Penland. Besides teaching in person, she writes articles and books on tapestry techniques and design principles.

Links

Tommye McClure Scanlin’s website

Gallery of Tommye’s daily tapestry diaries

The Nature of Things: Essays of a Tapestry Weaver

Tapestry Design Basics and Beyond

Tommye’s latest book is Marking Time with Fabric and Thread : Calendars, Diaries, and Journals within Your Fiber Craft, available October 2024

Read Tommye’s articles for Little Looms and Handwoven

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway's array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

You’re ready to start a new project but don’t have the right yarn. Or you have the yarn but not the right tool. Yarn Barn of Kansas can help! They stock a wide range of materials and equipment for knitting, weaving, spinning, and crochet. They ship all over the country, usually within a day or two of receiving the order.

Plan your project this week, start working on it next week! See yarnbarn-ks.com to get started.

Sustainability and regenerative ranching have been a way of life for the ranches of Shaniko Wool Company for decades. They are the first “farm group” in the U.S. to achieve certification to the rigorous international Responsible Wool Standard and NATIVA Regenerative. Shaniko ranches raise Merino/Rambouillet sheep in the Western United States, delivering a fully traceable wool supply that gives back to the Earth and its ecosystems. To learn more, and discover Shaniko’s yarn partners, visit ShanikoWoolCompany.com.

Indigo is a unique dyestuff, no less so for being found in so many different plants. Coaxing the blue hue out of green leaves and onto yarn or cloth requires a combination of chemistry and skill that has arisen across the globe.

Rowland and Chinami Ricketts each found their own way to indigo in Tokushima, Japan: Rowland was looking for a sustainable artistic medium after learning that the darkroom chemicals in his photography were making their way into local streams where he was teaching English. Chinami was seeking a colorful lifelong practice working with her hands, and it made sense to pursue the specialty of her region. Tokushima is celebrated as one of the leading centers for indigo cultivation, and both Rowland and Chinami took on an apprenticeship in traditional Japanese methods of working with indigo.

Rowland and Chinami are now located in Bloomington, Indiana, where Rowland is a Professor in Indiana University’s Eskenazi School of Art, Architecture + Design. Though thousands of miles from where they first learned to grow indigo, Indiana also has a temperate climate that suits Persecaria tinctoria plants. Following the cycles of planting, harvesting, and processing, they cultivate a crop of indigo for their own work and to support other artists each year.

Rowland’s earlier indigo works included noren, a form of decorative home textile that often screens a door, and geometric paste-resist wall hangings. In recent years, he has taken on more large-scale installations that play with light, volume, and even sound; these works have occupied interior and exterior spaces on several continents.

Chinami chose to pursue the difficult kasuri technique, a bind-dye-weave method akin to ikat. Chinami creates warp and weft kasuri in patterns that require great skill and precision to dye and weave. Her primary format is narrow-width woven cloth intended for kimono and obi, though recently she has transformed that cloth into wall-mounted artwork.

In addition to their separate work, Rowland and Chinami collaborated on Zurashi/Slipped, a large yarn-based work created for the Seattle Art Museum exhibition Ikat. We also spoke about Rowland’s explorations of the traditional American coverlet in a few multicolored works.

Whether you’re drawn to fiber art, traditional textile methods, or the magic of indigo, you’ll love this interview.

This episode is available in two formats, a full version that includes portions in Japanese and English (available in the Handwoven Library) and a voice-over version in English only (available through the regular podcast feed).

Links

Ricketts Indigo

Watch Rowland discuss the recent piece Bow as part of Project Atrium at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Jacksonville, Florida.

See photos of Chinami as she plans, dyes, and completes a project in kasuri.

See Zurashi/Slipped on exhibit at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art until September 1, 2024.

The Fort Wayne Museum of Art exhibit also includes a number of pieces from Rowland’s series Unbound, which uses historical American coverlet patterns in a meditation on the colonial globalism of the triangle trade.

This episode is brought to you by:

Treenway Silks is where weavers, spinners, knitters and stitchers find the silk they love. Select from the largest variety of silk spinning fibers, silk yarn, and silk threads & ribbons at TreenwaySilks.com. You’ll discover a rainbow of colors, thoughtfully hand-dyed in Colorado. Love natural? Treenway’s array of wild silks provide choices beyond white.

If you love silk, you’ll love Treenway Silks, where superior quality and customer service are guaranteed.

At Stewart Heritage Farm in New Market, Tennessee, farm to fiber and yarn has been a part of their story for 20 years. Home to a small herd of alpacas, Stewart Heritage produces small-batch roving, yarn, and finished goods available in 100-percent alpaca and natural blends in natural tones and brilliant hand-dyed colors. Discover the fine quality, long-lasting comfort, and soft luxury of alpaca to wear and enjoy in your home. Explore and shop alpaca at stewartheritagefarm.com.

The Adirondack Wool and Arts Festival is the perfect way to spend a weekend surrounded by over 150 craft vendors in Greenwich, New York. Discover a curated group of vendors featuring the best of wool and artisan crafters. Throughout the weekend enjoy workshops, free horse drawn wagon rides, free kids’ crafts, a fiber sheep show, and a sanctioned cashmere goat show. Join us September 21 & 22, 2024, and every fall! For more information visit adkwoolandarts.com.