After a prolonged slowdown, fashion’s M&A market is springing back to life. A combination of falling interest rates, shifting investor sentiment and optimism around economic policy has fuelled a wave of early 2025 deals. Within the first few weeks of the year, brands like True Religion and Kapital were acquired by private equity firms and holding companies, signalling renewed confidence in fashion investments.

However, not all acquisitions are about aggressive growth. Some buyers specialise in “managed decline,” acquiring struggling brands to extend their lifespan through licensing or cost-cutting. Others, including private equity firms and strategic buyers, see opportunities to scale promising brands by injecting capital and expertise.

“The key for a lot of these companies in finding buyers is proving that their brands are still worth it and can weather these economic cycles and lulls in the market,” shared e-commerce correspondent Malique Morris. 

Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sat down with Morris to break down the latest deals, the brands poised for sale, and what it all means for fashion in 2025 and beyond.

Key Insights: 

• A number of converging factors are driving a new wave of fashion mergers and acquisitions in 2025. Falling interest rates, Trump’s re-election driving investor optimism, and shifting regulations have all played a part in fuelling new acquisitions. “Retailers reported strong holiday sales in 2024, and even though much of that was driven by discounting, it signalled that consumers were still spending,” says Morris. “That kind of activity gives investors more confidence in backing fashion businesses.”

• Buyers are looking for brands with strong customer loyalty, an engaged audience, and clear growth potential that can weather the ebb and flow of the market. Brands need “good stewards to help them find the best resources to expand without hurting their legacy, whether that be money, retail networks, or supplier relationships,” explains Morris. “It's important to have the resources you need to maintain relevance and compete for consumer attention.”

• Beauty remains a hotbed for M&A activity. “Unlike fashion, beauty hasn’t faced the same investor hesitancy,” says Morris. “Brands like Merit, Westman Atelier, and Makeup by Mario are seen as prime acquisition targets, while Rare Beauty could be the defining beauty deal of the decade.”

• Overall, buyers are prioritising brands with strong customer loyalty and cultural relevance. “They're seeking brands with ample customer loyalty and a passionate consumer base that will keep their names in the public consciousness, irrespective of what recent sales growth will look like,” says Morris. He adds, “The thing that is top of mind is, what is the value of your brand? That’s an honest conversation that I’m not sure all companies have with themselves, let alone with buyers.”

Additional Resources:

• What’s Behind the 2025 M&A Wave | BoF 
• Fashion’s Most Anticipated M&A Hot Spots in 2025 | BoF

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In a special episode, BoF founder and editor-in-chief Imran Amed joins Bob Safian on The Rapid Response podcast.

“This is probably the most severe crisis that I've seen in the luxury side of the fashion industry since the Great Recession of 2008,” says Amed. “The business model and approach that the luxury industry has been using for the last decade or so is running out of steam.”

In their conversation, Amed and Safian discuss the cracks in the current luxury formula,  the untapped potential in older demographics, and how brand and product innovation have the potential to revive the sector. 

Key Insights: 

• Amed warns that the go-to strategies for luxury brands, such as over-expansion and relentless price hikes, are no longer sustainable. He highlights how the slowdown in Chinese consumer spending and a sharp drop in aspirational buyers who “gorged on luxury products during the pandemic” are exposing the cracks in this long-established playbook.

• While the industry has long speculated on whether India might be ‘the next China,’ Amed believes real growth is finally within reach. Thanks to a flourishing middle class, improved retail infrastructure and widespread mobile internet, international brands are eyeing India’s vast consumer base with renewed interest. However, success demands culturally informed approaches: “The smart brands are going to really find the right talent, Indian local talent, and empower those leaders,” says Amed. “The Indian market is on the precipice of something really big but it’s not going to be easy.”

• Amed acknowledges the widespread but often discreet adoption of artificial intelligence: “I think as with a lot of things AI, everybody’s using it, but not everyone’s talking about how they’re using it,” he said. However, he cautions that “to create something really, genuinely novel, interesting, disruptive, creative, and beautiful, a human has to be involved,” reminding brands that while AI can accelerate ideation, authentic creative vision remains the domain of designers themselves.

• Amed believes the current turbulence will drive fashion leaders to rethink their strategies: “What’s exciting about a time like this is it forces companies to innovate because the market isn’t growing super fast anymore,” he said. He explains that to thrive under tougher conditions, businesses “have to take market share from someone else,” meaning it is no longer enough to repackage old ideas. Pointing to brands like Miu Miu and Brunello Cucinelli, which are still achieving significant growth, Amed sees promise in those who offer “something different and special,” rather than relying on the template approach that has dominated fashion in recent years.

Additional Resources:

• The State of Fashion: Luxury | BoF
• Luxury Slowdown Could Last Longer Than Previous Crises, Chanel Watches and Jewellery President Warns
• The BoF Podcast | The Great Luxury E-Commerce Reckoning 

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The fashion workplace is evolving, shaped by a wave of technological advancements, leadership changes, and cultural dynamics. For many employees, adapting to these changes has become a challenge, while employers must navigate how to foster connection, retain talent, and drive innovation.

Executive editor Brian Baskin sits with commercial features editorial director Sophie Soar and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young to unpack how businesses can create thriving workplaces in 2025, the role of soft skills in a tech-driven era, and what it takes to re-engage an increasingly disconnected workforce.

“In the face of AI and more technology coming in, it is more important to have a human element. What does a human do well? That’s why soft skills are a huge focus,” says Butler-Young. Meanwhile, Soar highlights the growing challenges of employee disengagement, stating, “We are incredibly disengaged as a workforce. Trying to get employees to buy back into what they’re doing and be part of the workplace is going to be really challenging.”

Key Insights:

• The turnover of leadership in fashion is reshaping workplace dynamics. “New leadership means change, even if they're using the same playbook,” explains Butler-Young. “Having someone new at the top of your company tends to affect morale for better or worse, or just makes people feel uncertain.” She adds, “Fashion workplaces are in this perpetual transition this year, which will inevitably shape culture.”

• In the wake of President Donald Trump’s executive orders targeting corporate DEI programmes, successful DEI strategies in 2025 will integrate horizontally across all business functions, rather than thinking about it as a vertical. “If something is horizontally integrated across the business and is a fundamental aspect of every single core pillar that this business touches upon, it's harder to roll back on those initiatives as a result,” says Soar. Butler-Young adds, “If you as a leader of any kind of organisation appear to flip-flop on your values based on the way the political winds blow, I think that's going to have a harmful effect on your workplace in the long term.”

• As AI becomes more prevalent, employers are placing greater emphasis on human-centric skills. “In the face of AI and more technology coming in, it is more important to have a human element to it. What does a human do really well? That’s why soft skills are a huge focus,” says Butler-Young. Soar adds, “It’s about engaging a workforce who are constantly striving to think about how they can take this particular tool or opportunity to the next stage and do so with that can-do, positive approach and attitude.”

• The impact of the attention economy has spread into our work lives. “We are incredibly disengaged as a workforce,” says Soar. “Trying to get employees to buy back into what it is that they're doing and be a part of the workplace is going to be really challenging, especially as they're navigating a hybrid or remote working environment.” Employers, Soar argues, need to address this to optimise their workforce for the future: “It is fundamentally changing the way that we are operating as people as well as employees.”

Additional Resources:

• How to Future-Proof Your Fashion Career in 2025
• From Trump to Gen-Z, Fashion Faces a Culture Quake
• BoF Careers

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Tim Gunn is best known as the wise, empathetic mentor on television’s Project Runway, but before he found himself guiding the next generation of designers on screen, he spent time teaching and shaping the fashion curriculum at Parsons, where he helped nurture some of the most influential names in American fashion. His journey began in Washington, D.C., where early struggles with bullying and a desire to understand his own creativity led him toward mentoring and educating others.

Now, as the industry grapples with change on multiple fronts, Gunn offers his unique perspective on what it really takes to succeed today — in life and in fashion.  

“Life is a huge collaboration. We need other people. We’re not intended to be solos. And no one should think, ‘I can deal with this and solve this myself,’” says Gunn.

This week on The BoF Podcast, Gunn opens up about how his early trials shaped his remarkable career, why he left his art practice behind to focus on teaching and mentorship, and how he sees the future of American fashion.

Key Insights: 

• A graduate of the Corcoran College of Art and Design, Gunn once dreamed of being a painter or sculptor, but after just a few years in the classroom, he realised guiding students gave him more satisfaction than making his own work. “After two years of teaching, I thought, ‘I feel so fulfilled and so sated through the teaching process, I don’t need to make the work,’” Gunn says . “This is what I love doing and I’m just going to keep doing it.”

• During his tenure at Parsons, Gunn served as both a teacher and an administrator — eventually rising to Associate Dean — and was tasked with revitalising the school’s struggling fashion program. “The curriculum had not changed since 1952,” he recalls. “No computers, no fashion history... I was completely and totally horrified.” Determined to better prepare students for the realities of the industry, Gunn helped introduce new business training, creative independence, and a broader perspective on design. “The former curriculum was all about being totally and wholly dependent upon the faculty. You couldn’t do anything without faculty approval. And I thought, ‘These students are incredibly talented and bright. We need to let them fly and see where it takes them.’”

• The producers of Project Runway learned about Tim Gunn from industry insiders who pointed to his transformational work at Parsons. Gunn initially resisted the idea of reality TV, but curiosity won out, and his background as an educator shaped his signature style of mentorship on the show. 

• Gunn believes emerging designers need more real-world business training, collaboration partners and a firm grasp of their own creative DNA to survive. “If you insist upon making every garment yourself, just be resigned to having a little boutique and not making any money. If you really want something big, you’re gonna have to let go and you’re gonna have to collaborate with a lot of people,” Gunn advises. “Any one of us, either individually or collectively, can only be as successful as our ambitions and our resources allow us to be.”

Additional Resources:

• Television's Power to Launch Fashion Brands Remains Unproven | BoF
• How Independent Brands Can Thrive in a Fashion World Ruled by Giants 

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Brand collaborations were once rare, highly anticipated events that generated significant buzz. But as they have become more frequent, the challenge lies in creating partnerships that genuinely resonate with consumers and cut through the noise.

This week, executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with BoF correspondent Lei Takanashi and editorial fellow Julia Lebossé to explore the state of brand collaborations, what makes them succeed or fail, and where they’re headed next.

To work, collaborations need to feel authentic. For brands, “letting their collaborators take the wheel and just do what they want to do is really key,” says Takanashi. “When brands collaborate successfully, it’s often because they give creative freedom to the collaborator, allowing them to use the materials they want and tell a story that feels true to their audience,” adds Lebossé.

Key Insights: 

• Poorly thought-out collaborations often fail to connect with audiences and just won’t cut it anymore. “When it's done lazily, consumers can tell”, explains Lebossé. “We're becoming much smarter, really looking into brands and what they're doing and what makes sense. … That's why brands really have to step up in terms of what they're doing.”

• It’s not just big brands that can make waves with collaborations. Lebossé pointed to a sneaker collaboration between Bimma Williams and Saucony as an example where a smaller brand excelled. “They’re showing that, hey, we can do innovation,” explains Lebossé.

• Brands are finding even greater value in creating physical experiences around collaborations. Takanashi points to the Corteiz x Nike collaboration, where prospective buyers participated in scavenger hunts to buy the shoes. “If someone told me that kids would be lining up to buy Huaraches in 2025, I would not believe them at all,” he says. “But that’s the thing. This brand got kids waiting for hours in the freezing cold to buy their sneakers. It’s really that IRL experience that consumers are looking for when it comes to releases these days.”

Additional Resources:

• Why Fashion Needs the Art World More Than Ever | BoF
• Why Are Sneaker Collaborations So Boring?

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In today’s fashion landscape, many of us find ourselves caught in an infinite scroll of influencers. But in 2024, one couple captured the internet’s attention like no other: Lucky Blue Smith and Nara Smith.

From making cereal from scratch to becoming one of fashion’s most sought-after duos, their rise has sparked both praise and criticism. For millions of people following online, their content offers a glimpse of domestic bliss and authenticity; for others, it raises eyebrows, stoking wild conspiracy theories. As a result, the young couple has found themselves in the glare of the social media spotlight.

And as the Smiths revealed at BoF VOICES 2024, they’ve come to learn that not everyone will understand who they really are. 

“It’s the internet. You can’t believe everything you hear and see,” Lucky says. “People really see through all the fakeness. And if you're really authentic, then that's really compelling to a lot of people,” adds Nara. 

Key Insights: 

• Lucky Blue Smith rose to fame at an extraordinarily young age. At 16, he became the male model of the moment with covers of major magazines and appearances on runways around the world. Reflecting on the challenges of early fame, he shares, “When you go through a big viral moment and you’re all over social media, you can kind of become, in a way, self-conscious … But meeting [Nara], it was like I felt like I could be my true self for the first time in a while in front of someone.” For Lucky, learning to navigate online scrutiny has been crucial. “It’s the internet. You can’t believe everything you hear and see … You just have to try to focus on the positive and move forward.”

• Nara Smith underscores the importance of authenticity in connecting with her audience. “As long as you’re authentic to yourself and you’re living your best life and not being fake, that’s kind of how you can get to a point where you might be a really successful influencer,” she says. “People really see through all the fakeness.” As an influencer, she said she credits honesty and transparency as key to her success in the creator economy.

• Despite the perfect-looking presentation in her videos, Nara Smith shares the often unseen effort and dedication required to succeed in the creator economy, challenging assumptions that content creation is easy or low-effort. “What you’re seeing on the screen is a minute and 30 seconds. But I’m in my kitchen seven hours a day cooking and then putting my kids to bed and then editing for another two hours. And that’s every single day. I don’t take days off,” she reveals. 

• Reflecting on the evolving nature of personal growth and success, Lucky Blue Smith believes that living your best life is an ever-evolving journey. "I don’t think you’re ever going to land somewhere and say, ‘Yes, this is my best life.’ You always want to level up and move forward and challenge yourself,” he shares. His perspective highlights the importance of continuous growth and self-improvement, even amidst the pressures of fame and notoriety.

Additional Resources:

• BoF VOICES 2024: The Power of Purpose 
• BoF VOICES 2024 Concludes With Gala Celebration

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Public relations in fashion has transformed drastically from securing magazine features to managing 360-degree brand storytelling. PR agencies now navigate everything from influencer partnerships to event management, social media strategies, and beyond. However, choosing the right PR agency is no small feat, especially for smaller brands or those at critical growth stages.

“Having a PR agency that really feels like a genuine organic extension of your team … is what's going to enable you to plan together and collaboratively work on goals that you're super aligned on,” shared marketing correspondent Haley Crawford. 

Executive editor Brian Baskin and senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young sit down with Crawford to discuss how brands can evaluate potential PR partners, the challenges and opportunities in the modern PR space, and how to ensure a successful collaboration.

Key Insights: 

• The PR industry has evolved significantly. In the past, PR agencies focused on securing mentions in traditional editorial formats, with the ultimate goal being a feature in Vogue or Harper’s Bazaar. Today, their capabilities have expanded. As Crawford explains, “this allows them to represent brands across the full spectrum of physical and digital spaces where shoppers are really interfacing with them and discovering them. … The agency's role is to facilitate telling a cohesive story across all these facets.”

• Building relationships remains central to PR success. “The ability to build and maintain relationships has always been such a central skill in PR, but it looks totally different today than it did a couple of years ago,” says Crawford. “Today, publicists really have to go above and beyond to use those relationship building skills to build communities around the brand. And I think what really helps is being passionate about the brands that you choose to work with as well.”

• As artificial intelligence increasingly influences brand strategies, PR agencies must adopt innovative, human-centric approaches to distinguish themselves. This involves “facilitating an unexpected partnership … bringing events to life that really bring consumers that much closer to the brands they love” and helping brands “ to get in front of new audiences that might be unexpected.”

• When you're meeting with a potential PR partner, Crawford advises to think of it as a job interview. “Could you see them being part of your in-house team? Are they clearly passionate about developing your brand story and taking it to the next level?” 

Additional Resources:

• How to Choose a PR Agency | BoF
• What Fashion PR & Communications Professionals Need to Know Today | BoF

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Bethann is a former model, agent, and advocate who has been agitating for a more inclusive fashion industry for more than half a century.

Bethann launched her own modelling agency in 1984, pushing for representation and equal pay for Black and ethnic minority models. Meanwhile In her personal life, she was a working mom, and a woman that in her own words, “has no sense of retirement in her DNA.”

"When I say racial diversity, I mean I want to still see a redhead. I don’t want an all-Black anything,” Hardison says. “I want to make sure our world remains completely integrated. That’s the most important thing.”

This week on the BoF Podcast, we revisit conversation from BoF VOICES 2024 where Bethann spoke with London-based British-Jamaican designer Bianca Saunders about her inspiring career journey and the state of the fashion industry today. 

Key Insights: 

• Hardison’s approach to diversity in the fashion industry was intentional from the start By strategically building an agency that mirrored the diversity of the world around her, Hardison disrupted the norms of a predominantly white industry. “I didn’t want to have a Black model agency,” she says. “I think it's very important when you have to compete, you have to compete against the people who are running it.” Her decision to compete directly with white agencies allowed her to challenge systemic biases from within, making representation a matter of strategy, not tokenism.

• For much of her career, Hardison worked tirelessly without stopping to reflect on her impact: “When people come up to me and say, ‘Thank you so much. I love you. You’re such an icon,’ … When you’re doing the work, you don’t think of it as significant. You just want to get things done.” This humility is paired with a newfound appreciation for her legacy, which she gained while working on the documentary Invisible Beauty. “When I decided to make the film about me and let the story be told, I finally realised the significance of what I’ve done.” 

• Hardison’s vision of diversity extends beyond racial representation. She tells BoF she advocates for a truly inclusive world and challenges the concept of homogeneity in all forms to ensure that diversity remains expansive and reflective of the world’s richness. “The most important thing to me is to make sure our world remains completely integrated,” she says. “I don’t want an all-Black anything; I want to see redheads, I want to see diversity everywhere.”  

Additional Resources:

• BoF VOICES 2024: The Power of Purpose
• Op-Ed | Agencies Are Holding Back Models of Colour | BoF
• The BoF Podcast: Bethann Hardison, Kerby Jean-Raymond, LaQuan Smith and Patrick Robinson: ‘We’ve Had Diversity, but Then It Disappeared’

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Over the past year, the pristine image luxury brands have built on their links to artisanal craft, ethical manufacturing and quality has begun to crumble, buffeted by a scandal that has linked labels including Dior and Armani to sweatshops in Italy. 

According to investigators in Milan, factories producing for the brands were operating illegally and exploiting workers. Dior and Armani have said the allegations don’t reflect their commitment to ethical practices, but prosecutors say the issues uncovered by the probe are systemic and entrenched. Around a dozen more brands could still be implicated, with further cases expected in the coming months.  

This week, BoF senior correspondent Sheena Butler-Young and chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent discuss the findings of BoF’s own investigation into how exploitative practices persist in luxury’s supply chains and what the scandal means for the industry. 

Key Insights: 

• Luxury brands use their high prices and Italian manufacturing to sidestep concerns over labour practices frequently levelled against lower-priced labels. But the problems pervade even Italy’s most exclusive supply chains. “This may seem shocking and surprising to those outside this part of the industry, but in Italian manufacturing, everyone knows,” said Kent. “It's an open secret.”
• BoF’s investigation found brands routinely turn a blind eye to labour exploitation, ignoring red flags raised by audits and sustainability teams in the interest of convenience and cost. 
• New regulations mean the risks associated with such scandals will soon be much more severe. Under incoming European due-diligence rules, brands could be subject to penalties of up to five percent of global revenue if they fail to adequately monitor and prevent labour abuses in their supply chains. “There are still a lot of questions around how that's going to be enforced and what that might actually mean,” said Kent. “But that is a chunky piece of change for any big company.”

Additional Resources:

• Inside Luxury’s Italian Sweatshops Problem
• Is Luxury Finally Set for a Sustainability Reckoning?
• Are Luxury Brands Still Worth It?

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In recent years, extreme weather events have become commonplace catastrophes. And in an increasingly globalised fashion system, developing nations often bear the brunt of climate crises. For fashion and its complex global supply chains — which disproportionately depend on resources and labour from these countries near the equator — one of the most urgent issues is extreme heat. 

In April, the Philippines, Thailand, Bangladesh and India all experienced merciless and sometimes deadly temperatures, which shuttered workplaces and schools. According to the US National Centers for Environmental Information, Africa, Asia, and Europe all logged their warmest Julys since global records began in 1850. 

To discuss what this means for fashion, BoF’s chief sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent convened a panel of global experts:

Laurie Parsons of Royal Holloway at the University of London, who focuses on the garment industry and climate vulnerability, explains: “What's at stake is the productivity of the industry, the health of the workers and as more and more of these stories come out, the reputation of an industry.” 

From Brazil, Beto Bina, the founder and CEO of supply chain consultancy FarFarm says: “Thinking as an ecosystem, you can be philanthropic, you can bring in public policies. It’s a job for innovation, for marketing, for sustainability. If you bring these teams together and develop an innovative project to start this new supply chain that could be amazing for everyone.”

From Sri Lanka, Abiramy Sivalogananthan, country coordinator at Asia Floor Wage Alliance, who adds: “The freedom of association should be ensured. Workers should be able to talk to be part of the union, to fight for their rights with the factory’s management.” 

Key Insights: 

• Workers in garment factories face a range of challenges that often go unaddressed, particularly in the Global South. Sivalogananthan highlights the critical need for collective bargaining to give workers a voice in addressing these issues. “They should be able to talk to whom they need to talk. They need to talk with the unions who should be part of it. And then as a collective, they should be able to talk to the supplier and of course able to talk to the fashion brands.”  

• While many fashion brands are proud of their sustainability initiatives, these efforts overwhelmingly focus on reducing emissions, neglecting the immediate impacts of climate change on workers. Parsons points out this glaring gap, stating, “almost every brand focuses on decarbonisation, but there is an infinitesimally small amount of sustainability policies that actually focus on the populations affected by climate change.”

• Bina further emphasises the interconnectedness of fashion brands and the broader environmental and social systems they rely on. “If you buy cotton, you are part of the agriculture industry,” she says. “We need to start to recognise this is part of the business and the brand.” Instead of viewing climate impacts as externalities, brands must integrate systemic accountability into their operations to ensure long-term viability and ethical production, she added. 

Additional Resources:

• Why Hotter Weather Matters for Fashion
• What Happens When It’s Too Hot to Make Fashion? | BoF

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Over the summer, BoF editor-in-chief Imran Amed and editor-at-large Tim Blanks both spent time with Valentino’s new creative director Alessandro Michele to learn about his vision for the fabled Roman couture house.

One thing became clear in those conversations. Alessandro was drawn to Valentino in part because it would reunite him with Valentino’s CEO, Jacopo Venturini. 

Alessandro and Jacopo first made magic at Gucci, alongside CEO Marco Bizzari, when the luxury megabrand quadrupled its profits after a period of slow growth in the post-Tom Ford era. There is a special symbiosis in their pursuit of creativity and business, based on a strong emotional connection and a shared passion for creating beautiful things together.

In their first-ever joint talk, Alessandro and Jacopo joined Tim Blanks at BoF VOICES 2024 to share their plans for Valentino and go inside their unique creative process.

Key Insights: 

• Michele describes his approach to Valentino as a blend of honouring its heritage while infusing it with his own perspective. "I try to be gentle … It’s not my place, it’s me working in that place,” he explains. “There is always a conversation [with Valentino].” 

• Michele acknowledges that his work divides opinions, especially online. “Some people feel aggressive in front of the freedom of someone else … I’m happy with myself because I am free.” 

• Finishing the thought, Venturini says Michele’s work embodies “genius creativity that starts with real freedom … He has eyes that open the eyes of someone else.” Venturini further highlights how creativity fuels not just design but the entire business ecosystem. “Our company is really human-centric and creativity-centric,” he says. “The goal is to translate this energy into the real world without losing any of it."

• Michele embraces the inherent unpredictability of the fashion industry, stating, "I’m understanding that you cannot really plan in fashion." He likens his role at Valentino to cultivating a "beautiful garden" where experimentation and creative freedom allow for growth and innovation. 

Additional Resources:

• Alessandro Michele’s Valentino Vision | BoF 
• The BoF Podcast | Alessandro Michele: ‘There Is Always Mr. Valentino Somewhere With Me.’
• Alessandro Michele’s Valentino Debut: Lightness, Luxury and ‘Fireflies Seeking Love’ | BoF

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