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Critical Fashion Studies Podcast
Critical Fashion Studies Research Group
We hear a lot about ethical fashion, but what does this mean in practice? In this interview series, you'll hear from Australian fashion experts about how sustainability and diversity are shaping our local fashion industry.
- 27 minutes 20 secondsBonus Episode: Cross-Cultural Exchange with Môi Điên’s Tom Trandt
Australia’s connections with Vietnam are many and varied, not least of all in relation to fashion. Vietnam is the second largest garment exporter in the world; a place with a long history of fashion creativity, innovation, tradition, and local trade.
Australians have long benefited from talented Vietnamese garment makers. So, how are the connections between fashion designers and creatives in Australia and Vietnam being celebrated and supported today?
Today’s guest is Tom Trandt, founder of Môi Điên Studio in Saigon, Vietnam. Last year, Tom was one of four Vietnamese designers to participate in a RMIT-led cross-cultural craft and design exchange called đây đó (here/there).
The collaborative project, which brought together designers, artists and creative craft practitioners from Australia and Vietnam, promotes contemporary design practice while sustaining traditional forms of art and craft. It opened opportunities for cultural, economic and knowledge exchange between makers and designers from the two countries.
Harriette spoke to Tom about his practice and his experiences participating in the đây đó (here/there) project.
Show notes:
8 December 2023, 5:38 am - 34 minutes 5 secondsReinvigorating Australia’s Knitwear Industry with Kirri-Mae Sampson
Australia is famous for some of the best wool in the world. However, even though we produce one quarter of the world’s wool, 98% of it is exported before it’s turned into clothing. The lack of milling, weaving, and knitting capacity in Australia means that very little knitwear is actually made here. But this wasn’t always the case.
What are small manufacturers doing to reinvigorate the Australian knitwear industry?
Today, Harriette is talking to to Kirri-Mae Sampson, co-founder of HATCH + make, a circular design, development, and manufacturing facility producing premium knitwear in Victoria’s Yarra Valley. HATCH + make is innovative both in its implementation of a circular economy framework—which ensures as little waste as possible—and its commitment to local, regenerative production techniques.
Show notes
24 August 2023, 9:59 pm - 35 minutes 1 secondCelebrating Sustainable Fashion with Josephine Rout
Sustainability is one of the most pressing issues facing contemporary fashion. This is particularly true for emerging designers, who hold the demands and opportunities of sustainable practice in especially sharp focus.
So how is the innovative work of these pioneering young designers being celebrated?
Today, Harriette talks to Josephine Rout, the new Senior Curator at the National Wool Museum in Geelong. For her first project in this position, Josephine is leading the We the Makers Sustainable Fashion Prize, which supports authentic design, material consciousness and sustainable, ethical practice.
Show notes
We the Makers Sustainable Fashion Prize
The National Wool Museum on Instagram
11 August 2023, 2:07 am - 29 minutes 2 secondsBuilding an Emerging Indigenous Fashion Brand with Juanita Page
The School of Fashion and Textiles at Melbourne’s RMIT University welcomes hundreds of new students every year. Students who are passionate about fashion and want to join the excitement of an industry on the cutting edge of design, technology, and digital innovation.
But what do these students do when they finish their degrees and head out into the world?
In today’s episode, Harriette speaks to Juanita Page, an RMIT alumnus and proud Gooreng Gooreng and South Sea Islander woman. After graduating with a Bachelor of Fashion Technology degree in 2017, Juanita founded the slow fashion menswear brand JOSEPH & JAMES. Today, they’ll be talking about finding your feet in Australia’s fashion industry.
Shownotes
27 July 2023, 11:43 pm - 27 minutes 40 secondsMelbourne-Made Footwear with Myra Spencer
Last year, the Australian Made initiative organised a show in partnership with the Melbourne Fashion Festival. The models paraded the Cranbourne Royal Botanical Gardens dressed entirely in locally made garments. However, they were conspicuously barefooted.
Very few shoes are actually made here. A skills shortage and lack of machinery means that most local designers manufacture their shoes abroad or import leather pre-cut. This means they’re not licensed to carry the iconic Australian Made logo — a green triangle with a yellow kangaroo.
But are there really no Australian-made shoes?
In today’s episode, Harriette speaks to Post Sole Studio co-founder Myra Spencer about making shoes locally. Post Sole Studio is based in Abbotsford, where Myra, her co-founder Breeze Powell, and their small team design and make footwear, which they call “a manifestation of their love of shoemaking.”
Show notes
14 July 2023, 2:06 am - 32 minutes 20 secondsMade-to-Measure Tailoring for Diverse Bodies with Emily Nolan
In 2016, cultural historian Christopher Breward wrote “The suit is a complex, enduring vessel of meaning whose form raises questions about identity that continue to challenge us today.”
How is the history of traditionally masculine suiting being reimagined for a new audience?
In today’s episode, Harriette speaks to E Nolan founder Emily Nolan about her made-to-measure label that caters to women and gender-diverse people.
Show notes:
1 July 2023, 4:42 am - 29 minutes 17 secondsThe Camp Clothing of the Australian Queer Archives with Nick Henderson
From protest T-shirts to partywear, clothing has played an important role in Australia’s rich queer culture. But who ensures that these stories are preserved, remembered, and celebrated? And where are the artefacts of this history kept?
Today, we’re talking to Nick Henderson, curator at the Australian Queer Archives, about the collection’s clothing and textiles. Based at the Victorian Pride Centre in St Kilda, the archive is a veritable treasure trove of art, books and ephemera that celebrate Australia’s queer histories.
Show notes:
The Australian Queer Archives website
The Australian Queer Archives on Facebook
To get in touch about donating material, contact [email protected]
16 June 2023, 7:29 am - 24 minutes 48 secondsExhibiting Fashion at Bendigo Art Gallery with Emma Busowsky
From blockbuster shows at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York to our own National Gallery of Victoria, museums and art galleries have become increasingly important sites for exhibiting fashion.
However, there is also a vibrant fashion scene within smaller, regional art galleries and museums, which often show more intimate or unconventional exhibitions.
In today’s episode, Harriette talks to curator Emma Busowsky from the Bendigo Art Gallery about bringing fashion exhibitions to regional Victoria. Most recently, Emma curated ‘Australiana: Designing a Nation’, which is on now.
Show notes
Australiana: Designing a Nation
2 June 2023, 2:16 am - 28 minutes 53 secondsClarence Chai: Remembering Melbourne’s Queer Fashion Pioneer with Dr Sally Gray
The history of queer fashion in Sydney has received a lot of attention. The first Madi Gras in 1978 cemented the city’s reputation as a gay capital. At the same time, young artists and designers were adding to the city’s colourful, camp atmosphere. But what about queer fashion in Melbourne in the 1970s and 80s? Who was making adventurous, gender non-conforming fashion in this city?
In today’s episode, Harriette speaks to independent art and fashion scholar Dr Sally Gray about the Singapore-born designer Clarence Chai — a queer innovator who made his mark on Melbourne’s youth culture.
Chai may not have been as loud or outspoken as his contemporaries, yet his legacy is no less significant. In the wake of his recent passing, now is the time for him to receive the attention he deserves.
Show notes:
Angela Serrano’s interview with Clarence Chai
RMIT Gallery’s Radical Utopia Exhibition
Friends, Fashion, and Fabulousness: The Making of an Australian Style
19 May 2023, 3:45 am - 24 minutes 55 secondsTaking First Nations Fashion Global with Denni Francisco
First Nations communities across Australia have long histories of sartorial adornment. This rich heritage is finally receiving the recognition it deserves in this country, but how can we share Indigenous Australian fashion with the world?
In this episode, Harriette talks to Wiradjuri fashion entrepreneur Denni Francisco about taking local fashion international. Denni runs Ngali, a Naarm-based label that has earned an international following for its clothing and textiles adorned with Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artwork.
Show notes
5 May 2023, 7:03 am - 38 minutes 5 secondsAustralia’s Fashion Label Launchpad with Julia van der Sommen
Australia imports almost one and a half billion garments every year, but only 3% of clothing sold is actually made here.
In light of this imbalance, what can be done to help Australian designers achieve their dreams locally?
In this episode, Harriette talks to Julia van der Sommen, the Director of Sample Room. Based in Collingwood, Julia and her team help designers launch their labels with a range of domestic services — from pattern making to manufacturing.
Show notes:
21 April 2023, 10:17 pm - More Episodes? Get the App
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