In this video, we will use the Tindeq Progressor to measure finger strength in unique ways: "curling" and "Pulling."

The "Curling" method will give us our "true" finger strength numbers as it most accurately reflects the muscles of the fingers in isolation.

The "Pulling" method will reflect the fingers' total ability to resist. The force numbers and levels will be greater because the force numbers are coming from the muscles and surrounding structures of the fingers.

Both are important! But both are uniquely tested and trained! After this video, you will better understand how to target and improve both qualities of the fingers!

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Product/Service Links:

If you want to work with Dr. Nelson to rehab an injury, click the link below.

https://c4hpschedule.as.me/

If you want to work with one of our coaches, click the link below.

https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/

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Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

In this episode, you will learn the simplest finger strength training methods and how to use the Tindeq Progressor, a force measuring device, to test and train the finger for stronger fingers, better climbing practice, and climbing performance. There are more ways to strengthen your fingers and reduce your risk of injury than just using a hangboard.

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Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

Welcome special guest Paul 'Huffy' Houghoughi!

In this episode Tyler, Paul, and Collin talk about wrist pain in climbers. They cover the most common findings and injuries, what to do about them for rehab, and how to train more thoughtfully to best reduce the risks associated with wrist pain, including the TFCC injury.

Enjoy!

To listen to an additional 50 minutes of this episode please follow us on Patreon to gain access to this full episode and the entire Climbing Science Podcast library!

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Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

Dr. Natasha Barnes has been climbing since 1999.

Is a Touchstone Climbing Athlete.

She is also a former National Bouldering Champion and Teva Games gold medalist (now GoPro Mountain Games/IFSC Vail World Cup). 

She has bouldered multiple V10’s and V11’s and climbed 5.13d/14a outdoors.

And has been featured in several climbing films, interviewed or featured in climbing magazines and podcasts, and have been highly active in the community for 20 years. 

She is also a competitive powerlifter with an elite total and multiple State Records in the USPA and WRPF. 

She is the 2019 Sub Masters National Champion (75 kg weight class). 

And her best squat is 331, bench press 187, deadlift 380!

She knows a thing or two about climbing and physical fitness...and has skillfully adapted her experience and knowledge to climbers of all experiences levels to get stronger, healthier, and rehab from injury.

Interested in more info about Dr. Barnes? Click HERE for her website.

Want to dive deeper into climbing science with Tyler Nelson? Follow our Climbing Science Podcast HERE.

And for more information, coaching, and rehab program, visit C4HP online HERE

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Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

Coach JFire and I talk about his new course: The Principles of Problem Solving. This is the summation of all of Jesse's coaching and experience over the years bundled into one amazing educational resource.

The course is online, recorded, and can be taken at your own convenience! If you are catching this early and want to be a part of the Live sessions, they will be hosted Dec. 14th and 21st at 10am PST.

The course not only comes with principle education to transform you into a Master Yoda yourself, but climbing drill videos, worksheets, and many more actionable steps you can use to better yourself, or those you coach, the very next day!

To take advantage of this awesome opportunity click through the link below!

Principles of Problem Solving Course

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Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

In this exclusive Coach's Q&A from the C4HP Patreon we answer the burning questions that our members offer us each month. Included in those questions is the topic of endurance and Dr. Tyler Nelson has some new thoughts regarding better endurance training for climbing training.

The team also dives into other questions regarding assessments and training plan organization.

This 45 minute episode is only half of the full 90 minute discussion the coaches have! To listen to the full episode, and join the community of driven climbers and coaches, click the link below!

https://www.patreon.com/C4HP

Support the show

Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

We are back! In this episode you'll catch the C4HP team discussing their recent training plans as they head into their climbing season, what they are doing differently this year as compared to last, and what they think climbers could do better to prepare to perform!

The C4HP team has been busy developing and launching new projects:

The Camp 4 Performance Certification - a Pass/Fail course design to teach and test coaches on their ability to coach, demonstrate, and think critically about exercises and concepts for the Youth Competitive Athlete. This course will leave coaches more confident in their abilities to coach and write effective training plans for their youth teams!

Become a Camp4 Performance Coach!

We are now on Youtube! Our next big push for our community is longer content that can dive into educational details more effectively. Please head over to C4HP on Youtube to subscribe to our channel to never miss an episode! Please like, share, and comment you favorite takeaway from our latest video: The Simplest Finger Training Method.

We are launching a Patreon page soon! Be sure to keep an eye and ear out for our official launch and the exclusive offers contained in each tier!

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Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

Meet our newest Camp 4 Coach, Coach Jesse Fire Stone!

Coach J Fire brings well over a decade of climbing experience and passion to the team. His wisdom is derived from endless curiosity about climbing, technique, skill acquisition and improving your mindset to more efficiently better yourself as a climber.

Coach Jesse is currently taking on new clients and filling quickly! Click the link below to schedule your training!

Train with Coach Jesse!

Support the show

Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

In this episode the Camp 4 Team sits down to discuss common rock climbing injuries found in the shoulder, elbow, and fingers. Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about why these injuries happen and what is unique to each area of the body and injury. Finally, the team details what you as a climber need to know about climbing outside, or in a gym, to reduce your risk for injury and what to do for training as well.

Support the show

Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

In this episode Dr. Tyler Nelson and Coach Collin McGee discuss the principles of creating a training plan for climbing for both on-the-wall activities and off.

They discuss what should be done, seen, and felt in:

• Strength phases
• Power phases 
• Power Endurance Phases
• Endurance Phases
• Capacity Phases
• Performance phases

Each of those sections has unique characteristics that need to be considered in order to achieve the results of the training.

Dr. Nelson and Coach Collin also answer user submitted questions at the end of the episode too so stick around to the end to hear specific questions get answered!

Make sure to follow along with the team at www.camp4humanperformance.com and follow each coach's social media accounts: @liftsmcgee, @c4hp, and @technicallystrong

Submit your own questions to the coaches to have them answered on the next podcast!

Support the show

Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.

In this episode the Camp 4 team sits down to discuss in-season training. What should we be doing when the weather opens up for outdoor climbing? We should be doing: 

1. Things that help translate our hard earned offseason strengths into climbing specific work
2. Maintaining our force output through strategic exercise choice
3. Managing fatigue week-to-week so that we can arrive to the crag FRESH!

This is done through strategic exercise selection as well as contraction type in those exercises. We also discuss how velocity training, or training at higher speeds of movement, can be a "hack" to maintaining our strength while transitioning that strength to movement that will enhance our on wall performance too.

Ideally with velocity based training we know exactly how fast we are moving so that we can specifically understand if we are moving too fast or too slow, and so we can see when our velocity significantly drops off. The drop-off indicates fatigue as set in and we should end that set or session.

Tools to track that speed and give realtime feedback are no longer $1000s of dollars! One of the tools we use the most in our C4HP training and assessments is the Vitruve Encoder. This devices will give you real time feedback on movement velocity on a user friendly app to help you level-up your training and coaching. At only $400 it is one of the cheapest ways to gain the edge you need to become a more powerful climber.

And ending Nov. 20th Vitruve is giving C4P listeners at 15% discount on their device! The code can be found in the episode ;)

Thank you so much to Vitruve for the sponsorship of the episode. Visit the link below to grab you device now!

Vitruve Velocity Device

Dr. Tyler Nelson and Coach Collin McGee have new online courses coming up soon! Please visit the website for more information!

www.camp4humanperformance.com

And a new LIVE C4HP event is coming to Philadelphia, PA Decemeber 10th and 11th at Tufas Bouldering Lounge. Visit the link below to reserve your spot!

Philadelphia C4HP Performance Clinic

Support the show

Thank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.