Derek Guy and Peter Zottolo are back for AMA #2, generously sponsored by our friends at Bezel!

They get into the idea of “essentials,” dressing your age (or not), and how much stock to put in the usual menswear rules.

There’s talk of slouchy fits (when they work, when they don’t), value brands, sneakers, vertical layering, and the ongoing debate of shopping online vs actually going into a store. Plus, the kind of impulse purchases you try not to think about again.

It’s thoughtful, opinionated, and about getting to a place where getting dressed feels a little more intuitive—and a lot less stressful.
 
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SHOW NOTES

Peter Z'

One Coat

Eidos Carlo coat

One Watch

Rolex Explorer

Dressing Your Age

Old Joe geezer

Fabric Resources

Unfunded Liabilities Thread

Sneakers

Chuck Taylor 70s

Vans Classic

Sperry CVO Sneaker

Regrettable Impulse Purchases

Rick Owens Shearling

Favorite Style Photos

https://www.putthison.com/summershoes

https://www.vogue.com/article/john-pearson-male-supermodel-website-mrfeelgood-interview-naomi-campbell

https://aboutphotography.blog/blog/the-kiss-by-the-htel-de-ville-by-robert-doisneau

Swimwear

Orlebar Brown

Bespoke Item Most Jealous of

Presentable Attire for a Creative

Buck Mason Chore Coat

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Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying, selling, or insuring your next luxury watch 

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Hagop Kourounian, the mind behind Director Fits.

What started as a Substack has grown into something much bigger — part moodboard, part shop, and soon, a full-on magazine.

Hagop and I get into how Director Fits came to life, what it was like growing up in a deeply creative household, and why we’re just as interested in how artists present themselves as we are in the work they make.

We also talk about the return of physical media, the joy of collecting, and — maybe most importantly — whether you should actually be watching things with subtitles on.

It’s all in there!

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Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!

It was only a matter of time before AI reached the tailoring world. Daryn and Tim of Tailor’s Keep in San Francisco talk about clients arriving with AI-generated reference images, second-guessing fittings with ChatGPT, and what this shift means for bespoke. They also offer a practical guide to working with a tailor, including the small courtesies that make the process smoother for everyone.
 

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Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon 

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Uncle Paulie James,

Paulie’s one of those guys who just gets it — big fits, big sandwiches, and a personal style that’s completely his own. What started with a love of streetwear and Japanese denim turned into a cult following for his merch… and somewhere along the way Travis Scott started wearing it too.

Paulie and I talk about big fits, big sandwiches, slinging streetwear and Japanese denim, and how his gear started popping up on some very famous people.

It’s all in there.

https://shop.unclepauliesdeli.com

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Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

This week on Blamo!, I’m joined by Greg Jackson, founder of Greg Laboratory.

Greg’s path runs from growing up in D.C. to Detroit, from BAPE and Dunks to a serious run at Nike, where he learned firsthand what it takes to build product at the highest level. We talk about what he took from Nike (and why he left), launching Greg Laboratory, making things in New York, the art of refinement, and why a pocket might matter more than you think.

There’s Jay-Z, bespoke tailoring, Mexico, and the strange tension of making clothes that might be… too nice to wear.

https://greglaboratory.com/

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Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!

Sometimes, the world of menswear can get niche, as people dive into different rabbit holes. There are sashiko field jackets, patchwork Ivy Style tweeds, and dark, artisanal styles that look like they'd be worn by a forger in 14th-century Europe. For guys who sometimes feel alienated from these things, is it OK to have a more boring style? Peter and Derek talk about how you can play around with aesthetics you love without scaring your family.
 

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Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon 

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

This week on Blamo!, I’m joined by Ronnie Chiu, founder of Colhay’s.

Ronnie and I get into how inheriting his father’s sweater shaped his relationship to clothing — and how that personal history informs everything he does at Colhay’s today.

We talk about why knitwear doesn’t last like it used to, the importance of knit density, overwashing, handwashing, and why working with the same Scottish suppliers matters.

We also dig into intentional buying, sentimentality, raising kids, and what’s next for the brand — including a new line on the horizon. 

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Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

My guest this week is Ben Stubbington, creative director of Arc’teryx Veilance.

We talk about Ben’s journey through fashion and design, building the soul of a modern brand, the role of community in shaping culture, and how platforms like Substack are changing creative dialogue.

Ben's Substack - Holding Hands with Strangers

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My guest this week is a returning one: Jack Carlson

Since his last appearance, Jack has taken on a major new role as President and Creative Director of J. Press — one of the most important names in American Ivy style.

We talk about stewarding a 100+ year-old brand, what J. Press is changing (and refusing to change), department store lore, and what it really means to make clothing in America today.

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Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Patreon Preview from Blamo!

Harrison’s of Edinburgh has long been a trusted supplier for bespoke tailors, known for everything from W. Bill tweeds to Lumbs Golden Bale suiting and the Smith Woolens cloth behind Solaro. Peter and Derek talk with owner and director Mark Dunsford about how his family entered the fabric trade, how these mills came to define modern tailoring, and what really makes a great piece of cloth.

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Listen to the entire episode on the Blamo! Patreon 

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My guest this week is Bijan Shavali, founder of Intramural.

Bijan runs one of my favorite vintage shops, and we talk all things Intramural—building a vintage brand, working with Drake’s, why the T-shirt has become the modern tie, the pull of nostalgia in personal style, and a few practical ways to make your old shirts feel new again.

https://www.intramuralshop.com

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Sponsored by Bezel - the trusted marketplace for buying and selling your next luxury watch

Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.