The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Steven Dimmitt

Welcome to a podcast about performance climbing, self-improvement, and being a human being. 2M+ downloads. "One of the best long-form interview podcasts in the outdoor space." - Climbing Magazine

  • 2 hours 39 minutes
    EP 216: Maddy Cope — Erase Your Bucket List, Embrace Discomfort, and Discover the Joy of Missing Out

    Maddy Cope is a world-class rock climber and the head of education for Lattice Training. We talked about Maddy’s transition from dancing to climbing, living in a shack in the woods in Chamonix, and lessons from her personal reflections on climbing. We also talked about Lattice’s new online training course that Maddy was in charge of creating and gave a discount for listeners!

    Check out the Lattice Training Course!

    Ultimate Course + Assessment Bundle

    Use code “NUGGET20” for 20% off!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

    rhinoskinsolutions.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    Check out KAYA!

    kayaclimb.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

    Check out Arc'teryx!

    Shop for my favorite approach shoes

    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/maddy-cope

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:04:09) – Food poisoning in the van

    (00:09:03) – Home wall training

    (00:13:59) – Overview

    (00:15:49) – Dancing to climbing

    (00:20:35) – Warrington

    (00:27:31) – The Cham Shack

    (00:34:57) – Discomfort

    (00:36:19) – Comfort creep

    (00:48:28) – Pleasure pointing

    (00:54:08) – Being your biggest supporter

    (01:05:22) – The joy of missing out

    (01:11:40) – Not having a bucket list

    (01:18:12) – Quitting social media and sponsorship

    (01:22:20) – Half thereness

    (01:26:11) – British over-modesty

    (01:49:54) – Getting into training

    (01:55:30) – Maddy’s role with Lattice

    (01:57:46) – Lattice’s new training course

    (02:07:47) – Who should buy the course?

    (02:16:45) – Online vs. in-person coaching

    (02:25:21) – Wrap up and discount code

    (02:30:18) – Identifying blind spots

    (02:36:15) – EXTRA teaser for Patrons!

    29 April 2024, 7:00 am
  • 2 hours 16 minutes
    EP 215: Nathan Williams — Lessons From 100+ Days on a V17, the Simplest Way to Get Strong Fingers, and Static Shenanigans

    Nathan Williams is obsessed with ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ 9A/V17, and estimates he has spent 100+ days trying it. We talked about getting mentored by Jimmy Webb and Kasia Pietras and sending his first V10 within one year of climbing, why he took a year off, falling in love with ROTS, how to stay psyched after bad days, friction control, climbing with a purpose, gaining legendary finger strength in a few minutes per week, static feats of strength, and much more!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 215: Nathan Williams — Uncut Video!

    Check out PhysiVantage!

    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

    Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

    Check out the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy!

    squamish.arcteryxacademy.com

    instagram.com/arcteryxacademy

    Check out Chalk Cartel!

    chalkcartel.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    Check out Crimpd!

    crimpd.com

    Or download the Crimpd app for free!

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathan-williams

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:02:50) – Gaming

    (00:05:13) – Overview

    (00:06:52) – The luckiest intro to climbing

    (00:11:12) – His first V10

    (00:15:20) – Making the jump to V15/16

    (00:17:38) – ‘Sleepwalker’

    (00:19:53) – The birth of ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’

    (00:21:45) – Getting obsessed

    (00:25:31) – What makes a good session

    (00:28:02) – Staying psyched after bad days

    (00:30:51) – Friction control

    (00:34:46) – Bad tactics

    (00:39:15) – Feeling strong

    (00:41:17) – No regrets

    (00:45:27) – ROTS as a board climb

    (00:50:34) – Training for ROTS

    (00:56:33) – Nathan’s one-arm hang workout

    (01:01:51) – One-arm hangs vs. lifting from the ground

    (01:05:43) – More finger training

    (01:09:04) – Micros and finger anatomy

    (01:11:47) – Nathan’s climbing style

    (01:24:22) – Static projects

    (01:26:01) – Feats of strength

    (01:28:08) – Climbing inspiration

    (01:29:45) – Excuses and explanations

    (01:37:14) – Skin products

    (01:41:31) – Why he took a year off

    (01:44:34) – Not forcing it

    (01:47:38) – Working with a coach

    (01:51:22) – Life balance

    (01:54:47) – Climbing with a purpose

    (01:59:28) – Upcoming goals and plans

    (02:02:01) – More ROTS

    (02:11:33) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons

    22 April 2024, 7:00 am
  • 1 hour 59 minutes
    EP 214: How to Find Contentment in Your Climbing, Banish Shame, and Send Harder Than Ever — Neely Quinn (TrainingBeta, Life Coach)

    Neely Quinn returns to the podcast! We talked about how doing mindset work with Hazel Findlay changed her life, why she decided to become a life coach herself, simple tactics for working through negative emotions and banishing shame, why working on your mindset will make you climb harder, and much more! Neely also gives Steven a life coaching session and helps him find more contentment with his climbing.

    Book a Session With Neely:

    trainingbeta.com

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 214: Neely Quinn — Uncut Video!

    Check out KAYA!

    kayaclimb.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

    Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

    rhinoskinsolutions.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    Check out Arc'teryx!

    Shop for my favorite approach shoes

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/neely-quinn-returns

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:35) – Neely’s breakfast

    (00:02:48) – Jonathan Siegrist’s rest days

    (00:04:32) – Overview of our chat

    (00:05:47) – How working with Hazel Findlay changed her life

    (00:12:09) – The discomfort goal

    (00:14:56) – Not sending ‘Tombraider’ 5.13d, and learning how to enjoy climbing again

    (00:16:34) – Trying max hard, and feeling ready to fail

    (00:21:15) – Pursuing life coaching

    (00:22:28) – Self-talk

    (00:23:09) – The role of a life coach

    (00:24:35) – Mindset tools

    (00:28:40) – Email apnea

    (00:35:22) – Emotions, shame, and what to do

    (00:38:10) – Steven gets a life coaching session

    (01:00:07) – Gratitude, self-affirmation, and the list of 3s

    (01:06:39) – Becoming a life coach

    (01:08:37) – What Neely is still working on

    (01:15:29) – Gremlin work

    (01:26:45) – Getting out of depression

    (01:30:38) – Toil

    (01:31:56) – Piano, projecting, and self-hatred

    (01:34:07) – Self-esteem and inherent value

    (01:35:52) – Respect and envy

    (01:38:27) – Our homework

    (01:41:30) – A last bit of coaching for Steven

    (01:49:26) – Knowing when to pivot

    (01:51:02) – Wanting without attachment

    (01:53:20) – Where to find Neely

    (01:55:37) – What to look for in a mindset coach

    (01:57:01) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

    15 April 2024, 7:00 am
  • 1 hour 49 minutes
    EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Three V17s, the Fascinating Story Behind ‘Soudain Seul’, and Dream V18 Projects

    Simon Lorenzi is a world-class climber from Belgium and the first person to climb three boulders graded 9A/V17. We talked about lessons from his three hardest boulders, tactics for trying ‘Burden of Dreams’ in -13°C, the projecting bubble, the goal of struggling, dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’, facing frustration with optimism, using a book under his kneepad on the FA of ‘Soudain Seul’, dream V18 projects, and much more!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 213: Simon Lorenzi — Uncut Video!

    Check out Arc'teryx!

    Shop for my favorite approach shoes

    Check out PhysiVantage!

    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

    Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

    Check out Crimpd!

    crimpd.com

    Or download the Crimpd app for free!

    Check out Mad Rock!

    madrock.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-lorenzi

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:02:15) – How to pronounce Simon

    (00:02:56) – Claude Lorenzi

    (00:05:37) – Early climbing

    (00:08:02) – Discovering his potential

    (00:10:12) – Focusing on the details

    (00:11:31) – Becoming a 9A/V17 generalist

    (00:15:06) – ‘Burden of Dreams’

    (00:21:27) – The projecting bubble

    (00:25:44) – Simon’s 9A+/V18 goal

    (00:28:11) – Precision vs. finger strength

    (00:29:17) – External pressure

    (00:33:52) – Trying ‘Burden’ in -13 C

    (00:36:09) – Optimism

    (00:42:48) – Dealing with bad weather on ‘Alphane’

    (00:45:07) – Training while projecting ‘Burden’

    (00:49:47) – Projecting tactics

    (00:51:25) – Lessons from his three 9A’s

    (00:54:25) – How ‘Soudain Seul’ got it’s name

    (00:59:11) – Kneebar + book tactics

    (01:02:40) – His biggest lesson from ‘Soudain Seul’

    (01:03:23) – The goal of struggling

    (01:04:51) – ‘Big Conviction’, and bonding with his dad

    (01:10:01) – Stress from his dad

    (01:15:14) – Sport climbing goals

    (01:17:31) – Future competition plans

    (01:21:44) – How comps and outdoor projects complement each other

    (01:26:10) – Training for comps vs. projects

    (01:27:46) – Simon’s dream 9A+ project

    (01:37:07) – Upcoming competitions

    (01:40:40) – Repeating his dad’s 8c/5.14b

    (01:42:18) – Support from his dad

    (01:45:44) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

    8 April 2024, 7:00 am
  • 1 hour 35 minutes
    EP 212: Filmmaker Carlos Mason on Creating SENDING — A Look Behind the Scenes at One of My Favorite Climbing Films

    Carlos Mason is a filmmaker and the creator of SENDING, a new film featuring Ethan Pringle, Anna Hazelnutt, and Dan Beall. We talked about how a car commercial inspired this unique film, why he chose Bishop as the primary location, writing the poem that became the narrative for the film, the connections we form through climbing, how the in-between moments make up our experience, what it took to make the film, future film projects, and much more!

    Watch the Film:

    SENDING | MHW

    sending.film

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 212: Carlos Mason — Uncut Video!

    Check out Tindeq!

    tindeq.com

    Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

    Check out Crimpd!

    crimpd.com

    Or download the Crimpd app for free!

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/carlos-mason

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:49) – Carlos’ introduction to climbing

    (00:04:49) – Getting into filmmaking

    (00:06:09) – Bishop

    (00:11:34) – His vision for the film

    (00:14:59) – Cars

    (00:21:21) – Writing the narrative

    (00:28:31) – Friends

    (00:36:55) – Choosing the cast

    (00:47:28) – Choosing the climbs

    (00:52:16) – Ethan’s bat hang

    (00:55:25) – Dan and ‘The Process’

    (01:04:46) – Choosing the music

    (01:14:55) – Post-production

    (01:21:38) – Recording VO

    (01:24:57) – Behind-the-scenes content

    (01:29:05) – Where to watch the film

    (01:29:32) – What’s next for Carlos

    (01:31:54) – Thanks and sponsors

    (01:33:57) – How lucky we are to climb

    1 April 2024, 7:00 am
  • 2 hours 7 minutes
    EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Blowing Up on Instagram, Why Pro Climbers Deserve to Get Paid, and Overcoming Fear After Injury

    Davis Ngo (dr.climb) is a climber, Doctor of Physical Therapy, and Instagram personality. We talked about his upbringing as a first-generation Vietnamese American, blowing up on Instagram, why Sean Bailey deserves to make a living from climbing, breaking his back while highballing, overcoming fear after his injury, his dream of creating a bouldering competition in Bishop CA, and much more!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 211: Davis Ngo (dr.climb) — Uncut Video!

    Check out KAYA!

    kayaclimb.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

    Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

    rhinoskinsolutions.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

    Check out Tindeq!

    tindeq.com

    Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/davis-ngo

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:40) – Photo collages

    (00:03:36) – Bishop

    (00:06:21) – My introduction to dr.climb

    (00:07:52) – Growing up

    (00:12:11) – Getting into climbing

    (00:14:01) – Becoming a Physical Therapist

    (00:16:47) – Graduating during covid

    (00:18:48) – Blowing up on Instagram

    (00:22:24) – 69k

    (00:23:51) – Playing the game

    (00:32:09) – Who deserves to get paid in climbing?

    (00:44:42) – The progression of climbing

    (00:49:11) – Davis’ career

    (00:51:49) – Overwhelmed

    (00:54:15) – Self-esteem and social media

    (01:03:04) – Doing what you love

    (01:06:15) – Inclusion and giving back

    (01:09:26) – ‘Haroun’ as his first V11

    (01:12:41) – A year of injuries

    (01:18:01) – What changed after his back injury

    (01:23:49) – Backing off sketchy topouts

    (01:26:34) – “I just f*cking love it.”

    (01:35:25) – Overcoming fear after his back injury

    (01:41:54) – Trying highballs again

    (01:46:13) – Internet break

    (01:47:34) – SAMI sponsorship

    (01:52:03) – Creating a bouldering competition in Bishop

    (01:58:49) – How to support Davis

    (02:01:47) – Name suggestions

    (02:02:55) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

    25 March 2024, 7:00 am
  • 1 hour 37 minutes
    EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance

    Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence’ 9c, sending ‘Excalibur’ 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!

    Check out Crimpd!

    crimpd.com

    Or download the Crimpd app for free!

    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

    Check out Mad Rock!

    madrock.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!

    Check out PhysiVantage!

    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

    Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfi

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:28) – Young Stefano

    (00:08:18) – Humor and fun

    (00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing

    (00:14:20) – The whole process

    (00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence’ 9c

    (00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible

    (00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence’

    (00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence’ and ‘Excalibur’ 9b+

    (00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence’

    (00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance

    (00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur’ and ‘Burden of Dreams’ 9A

    (00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur’ with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi

    (01:02:14) – The sword earring

    (01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur’ got its name

    (01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble’ 8c+/9a

    (01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history

    (01:14:48) – Stefano’s climbing heroes

    (01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil’ 9a+

    (01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength

    (01:22:52) – Sara’s health challenges

    (01:29:29) – Supporting one another

    (01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

    18 March 2024, 7:00 am
  • 1 hour 58 minutes
    EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Going to the Mountains to Learn, the 100-Year Plan, and Imperfect Advocacy

    Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video!

    Check out Chalk Cartel!

    chalkcartel.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!

    Check out Tindeq!

    tindeq.com

    Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

    Check out KAYA!

    kayaclimb.com

    Use code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!

    Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!

    rhinoskinsolutions.com

    Use code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmerman

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:38) – Daddy style

    (00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley

    (00:12:23) – The recipe for success

    (00:14:32) – How I related to the book

    (00:19:03) – Graham’s injury in New Zealand

    (00:21:54) – The Burger King story

    (00:24:04) – Falling for mountains

    (00:30:24) – The mystery of passion

    (00:32:07) – Mark Allen

    (00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard?

    (00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents

    (00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places

    (00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan

    (00:57:48) – Shannon

    (01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose

    (01:08:30) – Getting engaged

    (01:16:13) – Loss and risk

    (01:25:58) – K2 and climate

    (01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy

    (01:43:15) – Voting

    (01:50:40) – Energy and water

    (01:51:39) – POW

    (01:52:29) – Don’t stop climbing

    (01:54:11) – Graham’s book and EXTRA teaser

    11 March 2024, 7:00 am
  • 1 hour 39 minutes
    EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Optimistic Training, Last Place to Olympian, and Leveling Up His Bouldering

    Jesse Grupper is a 27-year-old American who will be competing at the 2024 Olympics. We talked about his nomad lifestyle, the idea of “training trips”, climbing as an art form, the concept of optimistic training, thinking of ourselves as bodies of water, how he turned around his bouldering after placing last in his first World Cup, balancing Olympic prep with his job, soft robotics, and more!

    Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!

    patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing 

    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 208: Jesse Grupper — Uncut Video!

    Check out Tindeq!

    tindeq.com

    Use code “nugget” for $10 off your order!

    Check out Crimpd!

    crimpd.com

    Or download the Crimpd app for free!

    Check out PhysiVantage!

    physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)

    Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!

    The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!

    betterhelp.com/NUGGET

    Use this link for 10% off your first month!

     

    We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:

    • Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt Walter

    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-grupper

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:01:44) – Infusions for Ulcerative Colitis

    (00:06:40) – Jesse’s nomadic lifestyle

    (00:08:26) – Training trips

    (00:18:30) – Almost quitting competitions

    (00:23:05) – Getting bullied for climbing as a kid

    (00:27:45) – Climbing as an art form

    (00:30:12) – Asking yourself questions

    (00:38:05) – Optimistic Training

    (00:45:05) – Pessimism is lazy

    (00:47:54) – Frustration

    (00:50:58) – Support

    (00:53:16) – Each of us is a body of water

    (00:57:20) – Was Jesse a natural at climbing?

    (01:00:07) – Turning around his bouldering

    (01:04:44) – Strategy for the Olympics

    (01:07:47) – Training with circuits

    (01:13:40) – Balance

    (01:21:12) – Soft robotics

    (01:30:48) – “Take it easy, but take it.”

    (01:32:17) – What Jesse wishes we thought more about

    (01:35:20) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

    4 March 2024, 8:00 am
  • 42 minutes 29 seconds
    SEND ALERT: Will Bosi — ‘Return of the Sleepwalker’ V17, and What He Plans to Try Next!

    Will Bosi is back to talk about sending ‘Return of the Sleepwalker, his third V17/9A! We talked about surprising himself by sending the stand start in three sessions, why ROTS suited his style better than he expected, how he trained during the bad weather breaks, his process, how he felt on the send, how ROTS stacks up against his other hardest boulders, plans to try Megatron V17 and return to Terranova V16 and Excalibur 5.15c, what he plans to try next, and more!

    Will’s Original Episode:

    EP 166: Will Bosi

    29 February 2024, 8:22 pm
  • 1 hour 45 minutes
    EP 207: How to Rehab Finger Injuries, Build Bulletproof Wrists & Elbows, and Never Get Injured Again — Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio)

    Paul Houghoughi (The Climbing Physio) is one of the top physiotherapists in the world for climbing injuries. We talked about how to rehab lumbrical injuries, training with hypermobile fingers, wrist strengthening exercises, causes of synovitis and capsulitis, why stretching your fingers is important, blood work for stiff joints, tennis and golfers elbow, how to decipher different types of elbow pain, Paul’s top advice to not get injured, and much more!

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    Watch the Video Interview:

    EP 207: Paul Houghoughi — Uncut Video!

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    Show Notes:  

    thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/paul-houghoughi

    Nuggets:

    (00:00:00) – Intro

    (00:02:28) – Topics covered

    (00:04:01) – Paul’s grandfather, and how Paul became a climbing Physio

    (00:08:08) – Plans for the Olympics

    (00:08:44) – Lumbrical injuries

    (00:16:21) – Stress shielding

    (00:18:24) – Rehabbing lumbrical injuries

    (00:24:56) – Preventing lumbrical injuries

    (00:26:25) – Grip gears, and Alex Megos

    (00:29:19) – How to introduce a new grip position

    (00:34:13) – Training with hypermobile fingers

    (00:39:05) – The link between hypermobility and proprioception

    (00:41:33) – Wrist strengthening exercises

    (00:48:35) – Synovitis and capsulitis

    (00:55:39) – Climbing with synovitis and capsulitis

    (00:59:25) – How to promote finger health and prevent finger injuries at any age

    (01:03:06) – Why stretching your fingers is important

    (01:06:31) – Blood work for stiff joints

    (01:07:35) – What is normal to expect as we age?

    (01:09:18) – Playing the long game

    (01:11:08) – Hiding the broccoli

    (01:12:53) – The danger of overloading yourself with exercises

    (01:17:27) – Tennis Elbow

    (01:23:32) – My experience with Golfers Elbow

    (01:25:57) – End-of-range contractions

    (01:27:45) – Preventing elbow injuries

    (01:29:31) – How to decipher types of elbow pain (tendons vs. nerves vs. joints)

    (01:33:55) – Elbow joint issues

    (01:35:14) – Good rehab comes down to specific diagnosis

    (01:36:14) – Paul’s top advice to not get injured

    (01:40:14) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

    26 February 2024, 8:00 am
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